Two Questions About Paint Primers


Bob Chaparro
 

Group, what primers do you recommend for (a) plastic and (b) resin models, and should these always be applied with an air brush?

Thanks.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


tjcataldo
 

Mr Hobby Gunze Sangyo Primer Surfacer 1000 works great on resin and plastic

  tom cataldo


On Fri, Nov 23, 2018 at 8:26 AM Bob Chaparro <chiefbobbb@...> wrote:

Group, what primers do you recommend for (a) plastic and (b) resin models, and should these always be applied with an air brush?

Thanks.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA



--
Thomas  j Cataldo


Robert J Miller CFA
 

I use Tamiya light gray primer in a rattle can. So far, I’ve had really good results on plastic. I have not built any resin kits lately, so I have no results to comment on there.

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bob Chaparro
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2018 11:27 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Two Questions About Paint Primers

 

Group, what primers do you recommend for (a) plastic and (b) resin models, and should these always be applied with an air brush?

Thanks.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Nelson Moyer
 

Tamiya makes two light gray primers, so watch the label closely. One is Fine Light Gray, and that’s the one I use in a rattle can.

Nelson Moyer

On Nov 23, 2018, at 8:26 AM, Bob Chaparro <chiefbobbb@...> wrote:

Group, what primers do you recommend for (a) plastic and (b) resin models, and should these always be applied with an air brush?

Thanks.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Tony Thompson
 

The Fine Light Gray is excellent.
Tony Thompson 


On Nov 23, 2018, at 8:52 AM, Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:

Tamiya makes two light gray primers, so watch the label closely. One is Fine Light Gray, and that’s the one I use in a rattle can.

Nelson Moyer

On Nov 23, 2018, at 8:26 AM, Bob Chaparro <chiefbobbb@...> wrote:

Group, what primers do you recommend for (a) plastic and (b) resin models, and should these always be applied with an air brush?

Thanks.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Bill Welch
 

For years—20+—I have not used primers but for past year or two I have been using Badger's Stynylrez (stupid name) applied with Badger #105 "Patriot" gravity AB with .7mm nozzle/needle combo at about 15 PSI on both Resin and Styrene after Media blast with Baking Soda and thorough scrub w/Dawn followed by slathering on 91% Isopropyl alcohol and drying with airbrush. I paint exclusively w/acrylics BTW. Still not convinced priming is necessary. Stynylrez  does give a very nice smooth surface and it is self leveling.

Bill Welch


WILLIAM PARDIE
 

I tried Gunge after it was recommended for priming flex track.  It came out rather grainy obscuring the grain on the ties. Possibly I did not thin it enough.

Any thoughts?

Bill Pardie.



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: tjcataldo <cataldotj@...>
Date: 11/23/18 6:32 AM (GMT-10:00)
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Two Questions About Paint Primers

Mr Hobby Gunze Sangyo Primer Surfacer 1000 works great on resin and plastic

  tom cataldo

On Fri, Nov 23, 2018 at 8:26 AM Bob Chaparro <chiefbobbb@...> wrote:

Group, what primers do you recommend for (a) plastic and (b) resin models, and should these always be applied with an air brush?

Thanks.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA



--
Thomas  j Cataldo


Robert J Miller CFA
 

That’s the one I use as well.

 

Nelson, do you also use it for resin kits?

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Nelson Moyer
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2018 11:52 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Two Questions About Paint Primers

 

Tamiya makes two light gray primers, so watch the label closely. One is Fine Light Gray, and that’s the one I use in a rattle can.

 

Nelson Moyer


On Nov 23, 2018, at 8:26 AM, Bob Chaparro <chiefbobbb@...> wrote:

Group, what primers do you recommend for (a) plastic and (b) resin models, and should these always be applied with an air brush?

Thanks.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Nelson Moyer
 

Yes, since I started using Tru Color paint. I didn’t prime when I used Floquil or Poly Scale on resin. If the resin is especially slick after scrubbing it with Dawn,  I soda blast before priming. Has anyone used a mild abrasive cleaner like Bartender’s Friend on resin? That would be easier than soda blasting and probably as effective.

Nelson Moyer

On Nov 23, 2018, at 12:49 PM, Bob Miller <cajonpass1995@...> wrote:

That’s the one I use as well.

 

Nelson, do you also use it for resin kits?

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Nelson Moyer
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2018 11:52 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Two Questions About Paint Primers

 

Tamiya makes two light gray primers, so watch the label closely. One is Fine Light Gray, and that’s the one I use in a rattle can.

 

Nelson Moyer


On Nov 23, 2018, at 8:26 AM, Bob Chaparro <chiefbobbb@...> wrote:

Group, what primers do you recommend for (a) plastic and (b) resin models, and should these always be applied with an air brush?

Thanks.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Dennis Storzek
 

I steer clear of anything called a "primer SURFACER"  unless I specifically need the surfacer. Surfaces typically have a high loading of rather soft filler and are meant to be sanded out. I imagine one could thin it to make it workable, but why not just buy a fine primer in the first place.

Dennis Storzek


Bill Welch
 

Not a freight car but here is how the Stynylrez grey looks on a model. It comes in several different colours

Bill Welch


Donald B. Valentine <riverman_vt@...>
 

Hi Bob,

     I'm like Bill Welch as I do not use primers. All they do is hide detail with an unnecessary layer of coating. I wash with Dawn and also 
clean with a light going over in my grit blast booth if it seems needed. Then I paint with either Scalecoat or True Color/Accupaint. This is 
done with brass, plastic, resin and wood all with good results. As we Yanks say, if it ain't broke don't fix it!

Cordially, Don Valentine


Tony Thompson
 

Don, if you can use Tru-Color without primer, you're a better man than me.
Tony T


On Nov 23, 2018, at 6:22 PM, Donald B. Valentine via Groups.Io <riverman_vt@...> wrote:

Hi Bob,

     I'm like Bill Welch as I do not use primers. All they do is hide detail with an unnecessary layer of coating. I wash with Dawn and also 
clean with a light going over in my grit blast booth if it seems needed. Then I paint with either Scalecoat or True Color/Accupaint. This is 
done with brass, plastic, resin and wood all with good results. As we Yanks say, if it ain't broke don't fix it!

Cordially, Don Valentine


Scott
 

I have been using Tamiya Fine that is warmed in a water bath.  It is really hard to beat the finish and I dont have to clean the airbrush.

Looking at the reviews of Stynylrez it looks really popular.  I had never heard of it until Bill mentioned it today.  Learn something new every day in this hobby.

Scott McDonald


radiodial868
 

TruColor and resin are like oil and water, they don't mix. We've discussed this many times on this and the Resin Freight Car groups. There are also some primers TruColor will not stay adhered to also, so you have to be careful.
Took me a bunch of testing and repaints to figure it out, grit blasting and cleaning prior made no dif.  I may look like it's adhering, but it isn't, it's just wrapping the car with paint, and eventually will start lifting.
I settled on Vallejo Polyurethane primer and have been painting worry free with TruColor now.
Scalecoat you can spray without any primer...
Last summer i posted a photo showing the paint lifting off a CB&Q sawtooth. Attached is the same car after stripping and then priming and painting with Vallejo/Trucolor CB&Q BCR.
RJ Dial
Burlingame, Ca


radiodial868
 

Hmm, actually this was the Frisco car example. Anyhoo, here is the before pic of that one too.
RJ DIal


O Fenton Wells
 

Mr. Dial
Could you  take a minute and explain your paint stand pictured above holding the painted car..  How is it attached to the car being painted.  I've seen several of these and want to make one.
\Appreciate your help.
Fenton

On Sat, Nov 24, 2018 at 10:30 AM radiodial868 <radiodial@...> wrote:
TruColor and resin are like oil and water, they don't mix. We've discussed this many times on this and the Resin Freight Car groups. There are also some primers TruColor will not stay adhered to also, so you have to be careful.
Took me a bunch of testing and repaints to figure it out, grit blasting and cleaning prior made no dif.  I may look like it's adhering, but it isn't, it's just wrapping the car with paint, and eventually will start lifting.
I settled on Vallejo Polyurethane primer and have been painting worry free with TruColor now.
Scalecoat you can spray without any primer...
Last summer i posted a photo showing the paint lifting off a CB&Q sawtooth. Attached is the same car after stripping and then priming and painting with Vallejo/Trucolor CB&Q BCR.
RJ Dial
Burlingame, Ca



--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Paul Doggett
 

I use acrylic car primer for resin kits then Tru-color I find it works for me.

Paul 


On 24 Nov 2018, at 15:30, radiodial868 <radiodial@...> wrote:

TruColor and resin are like oil and water, they don't mix. We've discussed this many times on this and the Resin Freight Car groups. There are also some primers TruColor will not stay adhered to also, so you have to be careful.
Took me a bunch of testing and repaints to figure it out, grit blasting and cleaning prior made no dif.  I may look like it's adhering, but it isn't, it's just wrapping the car with paint, and eventually will start lifting.
I settled on Vallejo Polyurethane primer and have been painting worry free with TruColor now.
Scalecoat you can spray without any primer...
Last summer i posted a photo showing the paint lifting off a CB&Q sawtooth. Attached is the same car after stripping and then priming and painting with Vallejo/Trucolor CB&Q BCR.
RJ Dial
Burlingame, Ca<IMG_0281.jpg>


radiodial868
 

That's one of those little hobby hacks I stumbled across years ago.  Scrap pieces of foamboard and round toothpicks with the point cut off one end that pokes up into the trucks mount holes perfectly and can adjust to suit the length of car with the pointy end into the foamboard.  Since I always have at least 3-4 cars under build in various stages of doneness, I have a bunch floating around.  I don't mate the trucks up until the end (other than when I install the coupler boxes to make sure of height alignment).
RJ Dial


O Fenton Wells
 

Thanks, sounds like a good idea and I'll give it a try
Fenton

On Sat, Nov 24, 2018 at 11:04 AM radiodial868 <radiodial@...> wrote:
That's one of those little hobby hacks I stumbled across years ago.  Scrap pieces of foamboard and round toothpicks with the point cut off one end that pokes up into the trucks mount holes perfectly and can adjust to suit the length of car with the pointy end into the foamboard.  Since I always have at least 3-4 cars under build in various stages of doneness, I have a bunch floating around.  I don't mate the trucks up until the end (other than when I install the coupler boxes to make sure of height alignment).
RJ Dial



--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...