Topics

Removing car numbers on Walthers cars.


Scott
 

Hello,

Anybody have any tips or tricks to remove only the road numbers on a Walthers Boxcar.  I will give Walthers credit that paint is tough as nails.

I have tried the following:

Micro-sol trick which the paint laughed at and didnt budge.

Isopropyl Alcohol which kind of worked.  Have to press really hard to get it to budge and really easy to go through color paint.  The numbers came off eventually but you could still see them raised in the paint.

Scale coat thinner which took off the color and number.

Has anybody used Scalecoat wash away to remove just letters?  Little nervous to try soda blasting.  I really dont want to repaint the entire car just to change the road number.  

Scott McDonald


Drew M.
 

Scott,
  In a back issue of Model Railroad Hobbyist in Ken Patterson's column he shared a tip on a Walthers locomotive he renumbered. He used Solvaset and Scotch tape. I vaguely recall he applied the Solvaset to the number, allowed it to dry and then pressed the tape on the number and removed the tape. I have not tried this technique so I can't say how well it works.

Drew in Philly

Sent from TypeApp

On May 23, 2019, at 18:07, Scott <repairman87@...> wrote:
Hello,

Anybody have any tips or tricks to remove only the road numbers on a Walthers Boxcar.  I will give Walthers credit that paint is tough as nails.

I have tried the following:

Micro-sol trick which the paint laughed at and didnt budge.

Isopropyl Alcohol which kind of worked.  Have to press really hard to get it to budge and really easy to go through color paint.  The numbers came off eventually but you could still see them raised in the paint.

Scale coat thinner which took off the color and number.

Has anybody used Scalecoat wash away to remove just letters?  Little nervous to try soda blasting.  I really dont want to repaint the entire car just to change the road number.  

Scott McDonald


Lester Breuer
 

Scott,
I use a Euro scratch brush to remove lettering only.  Light passes.  I have used it on many different cars with success.  A complete writeup and photos are on my blog.  Look under “labels” for “ scratch brush.” for complete details if interested.  The link is:

http://mnrailroadcab100.blogspot.com

Lester Breuer


Nelson Moyer
 

Super Clean degreaser will lift lettering from Accurail cars in less than two hours without affecting the paint – unless you soak cars for a week and scrub hard with a toothbrush. I haven’t tried to selectively remove lettering or used it on Walthers cars.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Scott
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2019 5:08 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Removing car numbers on Walthers cars.

 

Hello,

Anybody have any tips or tricks to remove only the road numbers on a Walthers Boxcar.  I will give Walthers credit that paint is tough as nails.

I have tried the following:

Micro-sol trick which the paint laughed at and didnt budge.

Isopropyl Alcohol which kind of worked.  Have to press really hard to get it to budge and really easy to go through color paint.  The numbers came off eventually but you could still see them raised in the paint.

Scale coat thinner which took off the color and number.

Has anybody used Scalecoat wash away to remove just letters?  Little nervous to try soda blasting.  I really dont want to repaint the entire car just to change the road number.  

Scott McDonald


 

Currently on Facebook, there is a guy that replaced the lettering on a Walthers SOO caboose using Solvaset and a pink eraser. Said it takes about an hour per side to remove the lettering. This method looks to work well.
 
As far as using Scalecoat wash, I'd be very hesitant doing that. You'll probably be taking off a layer of paint as well.
 
Dave Strahlendorf
Erlanger, Ky


Peter Ness
 
Edited

In ancient times when dinosaurs ruled the earth I saw a cave painting or stone tablet showing a modeler using a typewriter correction pencil - not the round wheel type - complete with brush on the opposite end, to remove lettering "printed" (I don't think it was heat stamped) from a freight car side. My Mom gave me such an eraser pencil she brought home for work and I tried it with Micro-sol as a cutting medium and it worked like a charm. About a decade or so ago, I lost my typewriter eraser in a house move. At that time I searched for a reasonable alternative and came across the Faber Castell 7056 eraser stick - they produce a couple of different flavors, but this one has the pink-colored eraser material that reminded me of my old one.

I put some Micro-sol over the area I want to remove and have a go at it. Usually I am done with one area in 10 minutes or less.The "erased" surface is clean, glossy and ready for decals.  I have used this on old, enamel or lacquer-painted models as well as new acrylic and "ink-based" painted models with equal success. I sharpen the point when working on a model with lettering next to ribs or bracing, otherwise it only gets sharpened if the tip gets "gunked up". A broad, dull tip covers more surface area so removal goes faster.  

(whoops! forgot to sign)
Peter Ness


Chuck Cover
 

I have been using Solvaset and a toothpick for as long as I can remember.  Put a puddle of Solvaset onto the lettering that you want removed, let it sit for a few minutes and then start scratching it off with the toothpick.  The toothpick will not damage the finish but as the Solvaset begins to soften the lettering it begins to come off.  I repeat this procedure a couple of times until the lettering is gone.  I reletter/renumber over the spot and weather.

 

Chuck Cover

Santa Fe, NM


BRIAN PAUL EHNI
 

I use one of these. If the printing still resists, I use an ink eraser. The erasers that come with this are for pencil marks.

 

 

Thanks!
--

Brian Ehni

 

 

From: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of Peter Ness <prness@...>
Reply-To: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Date: Friday, May 24, 2019 at 12:24 PM
To: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Removing car numbers on Walthers cars.

 

[Edited Message Follows]

In ancient times when dinosaurs ruled the earth I saw a cave painting or stone tablet showing a modeler using a typewriter correction pencil - not the round wheel type - complete with brush on the opposite end, to remove lettering "printed" (I don't think it was heat stamped) from a freight car side. My Mom gave me such an eraser pencil she brought home for work and I tried it with Micro-sol as a cutting medium and it worked like a charm. About a decade or so ago, I lost my typewriter eraser in a house move. At that time I searched for a reasonable alternative and came across the Faber Castell 7056 eraser stick - they produce a couple of different flavors, but this one has the pink-colored eraser material that reminded me of my old one.

I put some Micro-sol over the area I want to remove and have a go at it. Usually I am done with one area in 10 minutes or less.The "erased" surface is clean, glossy and ready for decals.  I have used this on old, enamel or lacquer-painted models as well as new acrylic and "ink-based" painted models with equal success. I sharpen the point when working on a model with lettering next to ribs or bracing, otherwise it only gets sharpened if the tip gets "gunked up". A broad, dull tip covers more surface area so removal goes faster.  

(whoops! forgot to sign)
Peter Ness