NPRHA decals for Rapido NP box.


golden1014
 

Hi Fred, I may have something I can send.  What are you looking for exactly?

John Golden,
Ramstein, Germany


Schuyler Larrabee
 

I tried holding the decal sheet up to a light in a Luxo adjustable fixture and that was no help.

 

Schuyler

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Hudson Leighton
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2020 6:19 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] NPRHA decals for Rapido NP box.

 

Using a lightbox may be the way to see the decals better, if all else fails Tupperware and a Flashlight.

-Hudson


Doug Pillow
 

I could see much better the old Champ decals on pink backing paper . Some of the sets were excellent
Doug Pillow


Rod Miller
 

I've had the same experience. I believe it was because I used a permanent marker which must contain some solvents.

What luck have people had with non-permanent markers?


Hudson Leighton <hudsonl@...>
 

Using a lightbox may be the way to see the decals better, if all else fails Tupperware and a Flashlight.

-Hudson


 

What about a highlighter instead? Like blue?

Thanks!
Brian Ehni 
(Sent from my iPhone)

On May 4, 2020, at 4:53 PM, mopacfirst <ron.merrick@...> wrote:

I tried that on a Microscale decal a few months ago and it did not work out well.  This was one of those sets with lots of dimensional data, which are extremely hard to see.  I used one of those large Sharpies and the fill of black color as viewed from the front was very splotchy, even when being colored over a couple of times.  That didn't help much in locating where to cut.  Worse, I thought that this made the decal very hard to release from the backing, almost impossible.  As in any controlled experiment, I tried some with and some without.  I could have been doing something wrong, but I'd rather not try this on any decal that might be hard to replace.

This technique was first mentioned in instructions from Oddballs.  I never tried it with an Oddballs decal, but those are old enough now that I've taken to painting the face of the decal with Microscale liquid decal film, which does a great job of preventing film breakup.

Ron Merrick


mopacfirst
 

I tried that on a Microscale decal a few months ago and it did not work out well.  This was one of those sets with lots of dimensional data, which are extremely hard to see.  I used one of those large Sharpies and the fill of black color as viewed from the front was very splotchy, even when being colored over a couple of times.  That didn't help much in locating where to cut.  Worse, I thought that this made the decal very hard to release from the backing, almost impossible.  As in any controlled experiment, I tried some with and some without.  I could have been doing something wrong, but I'd rather not try this on any decal that might be hard to replace.

This technique was first mentioned in instructions from Oddballs.  I never tried it with an Oddballs decal, but those are old enough now that I've taken to painting the face of the decal with Microscale liquid decal film, which does a great job of preventing film breakup.

Ron Merrick


leakinmywaders
 

On Mon, May 4, 2020 at 11:41 AM, Bruce Smith wrote:
I have heard the if you color the back of the paper with a marker, it helps to see the decals on the front."
This has worked for me on numerous occasions with decals produced by MicroScale, and some custom-printed decals from an Alps printer.  Best is one of those jumbo Sharpies that really saturates the paper.  With a standard issue Sharpie marker, you often have to go over it twice to get enough pigment into the paper. I've seen no ink transfer to the decal carrier, but results might differ with decals produced other manufacturers using different paper.  

Chris Frissell
Polson, MT


Bruce Smith
 

I have heard the if you color the back of the paper with a marker, it helps to see the decals on the front. I've always been nervous to do this since the only markers in the house are sharpies. My guess is that paint would also work.

Obviously, TEST these suggestions on a decal or section of decal that you don't want to use!

Regards,
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of Richard McQuade via groups.io <richardmcquade@...>
Sent: Monday, May 4, 2020 11:29 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] NPRHA decals for Rapido NP box.
 
To read white dry transfers I use a sheet of black construction paper behind them so I can read them. Maybe using a bit of tape on the top of the decal sheet and attached to  a piece of black construction paper behind the decal sheet could help with at least seeing the decals better. I haven't tried it with decals and the thickness of the decal sheet will make a difference but this might work in some cases. Nothing lost in trying it.
Richard


Schuyler Larrabee
 

Exactly the set that brought my rant to the fore!

Schuyler

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of George Corral
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2020 12:21 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] NPRHA decals for Rapido NP box.

 

Schuyler Larrabee wrote:

          "Light blue for decal paper is an improvement over white, but why can’t it be a medium blue instead of light robin’s egg blue . . .???

I have the same question. 

I'm having trouble distinguishing where to cut between lettering on the decals I received at the 2020 Cocoa Beach RPM Shake-N-Take. The lettering is white on a very pale blue almost white background.  Any solutions? 

George


Richard McQuade
 

To read white dry transfers I use a sheet of black construction paper behind them so I can read them. Maybe using a bit of tape on the top of the decal sheet and attached to  a piece of black construction paper behind the decal sheet could help with at least seeing the decals better. I haven't tried it with decals and the thickness of the decal sheet will make a difference but this might work in some cases. Nothing lost in trying it.
Richard


George Corral
 

Schuyler Larrabee wrote:

          "Light blue for decal paper is an improvement over white, but why can’t it be a medium blue instead of light robin’s egg blue . . .???

I have the same question. 

I'm having trouble distinguishing where to cut between lettering on the decals I received at the 2020 Cocoa Beach RPM Shake-N-Take. The lettering is white on a very pale blue almost white background.  Any solutions? 

George


Ken Adams
 

Some years ago someone on the old Yahoo boards indicated that going over the back of the white on light blue Microscale decals with a black marker would enable you to read them. I tried it and ruined a part of a sheet of reporting remarks.  Has anyone got a better solution?
--
Ken Adams
In splendid Shelter In Place solitude, about half way up Walnut Creek


Fred Jansz
 

I own a Rapido undec NP car too I'd like to paint & letter.
So I tried to order a decal set online.
Didn't work.
$20 minimum order and (I suppose) $20 minimum postage to Holland for the parcel.
Pity.
Anyone willing to sell a spare set?
I'll paypal you (as a friend) for decals, envelope & postage.

best regards from sunny Holland,
Fred Jansz


Schuyler Larrabee
 

Light blue for decal paper is an improvement over white, but why can’t it be a medium blue instead of light robin’s egg blue . . .???

 

Schuyler

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Brian Carlson via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, May 03, 2020 8:17 PM
To: RealSTMFC@groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] NPRHA decals for Rapido NP box.

 

Last year I purchased some decals for the Rapido NP boxcar since I knew I’d have to tweak my models for my era.

 

 

 I must say this were some of the nicest decals I have ever used. I was working with decorated models so I only needed to change reweigh and repack dates but I applied Over 40 little decals to the model since they included chalk marks, reweigh and repack data printed on car body colors and placards. 

 

The film is very thin and everything laid down Nicely with micro sol. 

 

I have repack and reweigh data and a few spare Monads for a few more NP cars. 

 

My only issue was I could not read some of the smallest data on the backing. I’ve had this problem with other decals too. 

 

I’ll post pics of the cars when they are weathered.  I just wanted to give the NPRHA a public shout out about the decals. 

Brian J. Carlson 


Brian Carlson
 

Last year I purchased some decals for the Rapido NP boxcar since I knew I’d have to tweak my models for my era.


 I must say this were some of the nicest decals I have ever used. I was working with decorated models so I only needed to change reweigh and repack dates but I applied Over 40 little decals to the model since they included chalk marks, reweigh and repack data printed on car body colors and placards. 

The film is very thin and everything laid down Nicely with micro sol. 

I have repack and reweigh data and a few spare Monads for a few more NP cars. 

My only issue was I could not read some of the smallest data on the backing. I’ve had this problem with other decals too. 

I’ll post pics of the cars when they are weathered.  I just wanted to give the NPRHA a public shout out about the decals. 

Brian J. Carlson