Canopy Glue vs. CA


G'Day Gents,

I started assembling a couple of Yarmouth Models Works NP resin boxcars,  and in both cases, managed to rub ribs (cast to thin?) off the roofs with my thumb and fingers while gluing in the floor. So now, I'm going to have to fabricate new ribs from plastic. Has anyone utilized canopy glue as an alternative to CA for securing plastic to resin?


Darrall Swift - Lagrange, Ohio 
Modeling the BN/MILW in North Central Montana, Great Falls to Shelby,  Circa: August-September 1979

Todd Sullivan

Hi Darrall,

I use Woodland Scenics Hob-E-Tak, which I believe is similar to canopy glue.  Hob-E-Tak is great for tacking resin kit parts in position before adding CA, and it will hold parts together if they are not exposed to bumping and handling.  I used it throughout my constriction of an F&C NP 36ft boxcar, and it made alignment of parts much easier.  Two other examples: I used it to glue a styrene toolbox on the pilot deck of a P2K USRA 0-8-0 that I detailed for someone else.  The toolbox had to be removable in order to disassemble the loco to maintain lights, etc.  I also used it to secure cab awnings to a P2K USRA 0-6-0.  The awnings had attachment pins, but they did not keep the awnings on the cab.  Only one of the Hob-E-Tak'd awnings has come off, and it was easily re-attached without more glue.

I hope this helps.

Todd Sullivan.


I also had some ribs and running board supports break off on my Cookie Box Yarmouth Kit. Too make the repair I did the following
I used .010x.020 stryene for the ribs. I started by cutting out the the bad section and lightly sanding where the rib was for a flat surface. I made sure I left the rounded outside edge of each rib closest to the roof edge I Cut a piece of the .010x.020 styrene to fit and holding with tweezers brushed on the bottom of the new rib about 3 light coats of Tamiya Extra Thin Styrene cement to soften the plastic. This make it sticky and I next brushed on a coat of the Tamiya onto the resin roof where the new rib goes and carefully placed the still still softened rib in place. I did this for all the ribs and after they set up I then applied a bead of Extra Thin CA along the seam. After dry I lightly sanded with a 320 grit sanding stick. I know this sounds like it should not work, but it does.
I also used Moloco running board supports. I stated by just changing a few that were broke, but ended up replacing all of them. Not totally happy with my results as I should have made a drilling jig, but once the running board is in place I think it will be OK. 
Attached photo show almost ready repair. Still need a bit more sanding on ribs. Alos needed to replace part of the upper door track as well
George Toman

Todd Sullivan


Thanks for sharing with us this great technique.  I'm sure I will use it on various resin models.

Todd Sullivan