[Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Pennsy X23 HO scale


Bill McClure
 

Eric,

Well done; inspirational.

Bill


william darnaby
 

I use Grumbacher oil paint and make washes with the turpentine replacement terpinol.  In my experience it wets and flows way better over detail with a flat finish. YMMV, of course.

 

Bill Darnaby

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of James Brewer
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2021 1:39 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Pennsy X23 HO scale

 

Bruce,

Thanks! I am using oil paints and Grumbacher Turpentine; I'll try an even thinner wash next time over a gloss surface.

Jim Brewer


James Brewer
 

Thanks Eric!

Jim Brewer


Eric Hansmann
 

Thanks, Jim.

 

I applied the pin wash as the first weathering layer. A flat coat had been applied before starting the weathering.

 

I had used up a bottle of Vallejo burnt umber but like most any paint bottle, it wasn’t truly empty. I added some Vallejo thinner and shook it up. That became a wash.

 

I would put a few drops on a plastic palette and transfer the material with a fine 00 brush. A broader flat brush (3/16-inches wide) was used to apply the wash on the roof, door, and the lowest side sill . The wash was only applied to metal parts.

 

 

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of James Brewer
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2021 12:41 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Pennsy X23 HO scale

 

Great looking car Eric; love the weathering.

When did you apply the pin wash? I was playing around with a pin wash the other day and believe I mixed it properly; I followed mixing directions per a Mike Confalone video on MRH; however, my pin wash didn't really flow as I thought it should, or how I perceived Mike's flowing around details.  I then did a YouTube search and watched a few military modeling videos where a pin wash was added; every one of the military guys insisted the pin wash had to be applied to a glossy finish, not a flat finish. Thoughts?

Jim Brewer


James Brewer
 

Bruce,

Thanks! I am using oil paints and Grumbacher Turpentine; I'll try an even thinner wash next time over a gloss surface.

Jim Brewer


Bruce Smith
 

Jim,

I've had better luck with them on gloss finishes. Really thin is important, and while my daily goto paints are acrylic, I feel like enamels work better for pin washes... the organic solvents help them flow better, imho. You might try adding a drop of a surfactant (wetting agent) with acrylics (if you have not already done so) like photo-flo or detergent. Dot filters otoh, seem to work fine on flat surfaces. 

Regards,
Bruce Smith
Auburn,
Al


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of James Brewer <jim.brewer.3611@...>
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2021 12:40 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Pennsy X23 HO scale
 
Great looking car Eric; love the weathering.

When did you apply the pin wash? I was playing around with a pin wash the other day and believe I mixed it properly; I followed mixing directions per a Mike Confalone video on MRH; however, my pin wash didn't really flow as I thought it should, or how I perceived Mike's flowing around details.  I then did a YouTube search and watched a few military modeling videos where a pin wash was added; every one of the military guys insisted the pin wash had to be applied to a glossy finish, not a flat finish. Thoughts?

Jim Brewer


James Brewer
 

Great looking car Eric; love the weathering.

When did you apply the pin wash? I was playing around with a pin wash the other day and believe I mixed it properly; I followed mixing directions per a Mike Confalone video on MRH; however, my pin wash didn't really flow as I thought it should, or how I perceived Mike's flowing around details.  I then did a YouTube search and watched a few military modeling videos where a pin wash was added; every one of the military guys insisted the pin wash had to be applied to a glossy finish, not a flat finish. Thoughts?

Jim Brewer


Gatwood, Elden J SAD
 

Looks great, Eric!

 

Elden Gatwood

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Eric Hansmann
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2021 10:18 AM
To: RealSTMFC@groups.io; Resin Freight Car Builders <ResinFreightCarBuilders@groups.io>
Subject: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Pennsy X23 HO scale

 

I started a Westerfield HO scale X23 boxcar kit in November 2015. The other morning I snapped photos of the almost completed model. It still needs Carmer uncoupling hardware. The model was painted with Vallejo amaranth red with maybe a drop or two of scarlet mixed into the paint cup. The lettering represents a post-WW1 appearance but before the revised AAR 1927 lettering guidelines for the weigh data presentation. I model late 1926.

 

I applied a pinwash of Vallejo acrylic burnt umber to the metal components as they always seem to weather differently from the wood. Prismacolor warm and cool grey pencils were used as the initial weathering layer on the sheathing. It was followed with Pan Pastel raw umber and raw umber tint applied sparingly with a micro brush and scrubbed onto the sheathing. Extra raw umber was applied to the doors for that rough Pennsy look. Pan Pastel neutral grey extra dark was scrubbed onto the roof and daubed along upper elements of the car sides and ends.

 

A Prismacolor 10% cool grey pencil was used to highlight edges and add chalk marks. Route cards and placards were added from my own artwork. The car rides on Bowser arch bar trucks with Intermountain semi-scale wheelsets. Accurail Proto:HO scale couplers and Hi-Tech air hoses are installed.

 

Someone asked about the amount of real time I have worked on this model. Here’s a summery, to the best of my recollection.

- The three-part ladders took 30-45 minutes each to prep and build.

- The car body and other details went easily, maybe three hours of work.

- Painting is a snap at about an hour, that includes car color, gloss coat, post-decal gloss coat, and the flat coat. The time doesn't include airbrush clean up as I sprayed other models during each step.

- Decal work is tedious as there were some slice-and-dice parts for the weigh date and two hours of research to determine what lettering to use and where to place it.

- Applying the weathering layers was at least two hours.

 

Adding the individual process steps comes to about 12 hours of work. The next time I build one of these, the ladders will be installed after weathering. And I really hope those ladders will be etched metal details, too.

 

 

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN