Photo: SFRD 7029 (Rr-35)


Bob Chaparro
 

Photo: SFRD 7029 (Rr-35)

A Charlie Slater photo taken February 1957 in San Diego, CA.

This car has the straight-line map, reverse-opening hatch covers, Preco mechanical fans and a fishbelly underframe that hints of the car’s earlier origin.

Santa Fe’s 330 Rr-35 cars (Series 7029-7358) resulted from a rebuilding program in 1944-1945. These cars were rebuilt from Classes Rr-X, -Y and -2 reefers, the so-called USRA style cars built in the early 1920s.

At the time this photo was taken a little over 320 Rr-35 cars were in service. By 1968 that number decreased to 139, 81 in 1971 and just 3 in 1974.

In HO scale Sunshine (Out of business) and CB&T Shops (Out of production) made Rr-35 models. These show up from time to time on E-Bay and other reseller sites.

Bob Chaparro

Moderator

Railroad Citrus Industry Modeling Group

https://groups.io/g/RailroadCitrusIndustryModelingGroup


Nelson Moyer
 

The SFRD rebuilds Rr-35, 36, 39, and 40, and the Rr-43, 45 cars were issued by Resin Car Works recently, but they are out of stock now. If there is sufficient demand, its possible RCW will do another run. I’m in the process of building one each of the Rr-35, Re-39, Rr-40, and Rr-45 cars.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bob Chaparro via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, February 2, 2022 12:46 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Photo: SFRD 7029 (Rr-35)

 

Photo: SFRD 7029 (Rr-35)

A Charlie Slater photo taken February 1957 in San Diego, CA.

This car has the straight-line map, reverse-opening hatch covers, Preco mechanical fans and a fishbelly underframe that hints of the car’s earlier origin.

Santa Fe’s 330 Rr-35 cars (Series 7029-7358) resulted from a rebuilding program in 1944-1945. These cars were rebuilt from Classes Rr-X, -Y and -2 reefers, the so-called USRA style cars built in the early 1920s.

At the time this photo was taken a little over 320 Rr-35 cars were in service. By 1968 that number decreased to 139, 81 in 1971 and just 3 in 1974.

In HO scale Sunshine (Out of business) and CB&T Shops (Out of production) made Rr-35 models. These show up from time to time on E-Bay and other reseller sites.

Bob Chaparro

Moderator

Railroad Citrus Industry Modeling Group

https://groups.io/g/RailroadCitrusIndustryModelingGroup


mopacfirst
 

Remind me how much difference in height there is between the Rr-35 and other rebuilds of its era, versus the Rr-33 and before.  I believe I can do an Rr-33 by adding a W-section end to an Intermountain car, but I think after then, the height changed by (on the outside) changing the width of the strip at the top of the car side, the black part.

Ron Merrick


Nelson Moyer
 

I’m not a Santa Fe modeler, and the only information I have is from the Sunshine PDS attached.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of mopacfirst
Sent: Wednesday, February 2, 2022 2:23 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Photo: SFRD 7029 (Rr-35)

 

Remind me how much difference in height there is between the Rr-35 and other rebuilds of its era, versus the Rr-33 and before.  I believe I can do an Rr-33 by adding a W-section end to an Intermountain car, but I think after then, the height changed by (on the outside) changing the width of the strip at the top of the car side, the black part.

Ron Merrick


mopacfirst
 

Yes, I see the differences.  The actual increase in the depth of the top sill was 4", and since the top sill is molded as part of the roof on the IM car, that would require sacrificing a row of rivets.  There are some other changes that might not be worth doing, so maybe I'll stick to an Rr-33.  I've done a similar change of ends on an ART car, so the end change alone is not that big a deal.

Thanks for forwarding that scan -- I have some of the Sunshine PDS sheets, didn't remember where I had read that info before.

Ron Merrick


nyc3001 .
 

The C&BT RR-35 to -40 and RR-43/45 kits appear on eBay at fairly low prices with some frequency under "Body Style C" and "Body Style D" respectively. 

The bodies are good, but many parts could be upgraded. 

-Phil Lee


Tim O'Connor
 


The C&BT bodies are excellent - sides and ends. The rest is a real horror show.


On 2/2/2022 7:31 PM, nyc3001 . wrote:
The C&BT RR-35 to -40 and RR-43/45 kits appear on eBay at fairly low prices with some frequency under "Body Style C" and "Body Style D" respectively. 

The bodies are good, but many parts could be upgraded. 

-Phil Lee

--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


 

I found a bunch of them at Classic Ferraris & Trains in Paducah. 

Thanks!
Brian Ehni 
(Sent from my iPhone)

On Feb 2, 2022, at 6:31 PM, nyc3001 . <nyc3001@...> wrote:

The C&BT RR-35 to -40 and RR-43/45 kits appear on eBay at fairly low prices with some frequency under "Body Style C" and "Body Style D" respectively. 

The bodies are good, but many parts could be upgraded. 

-Phil Lee


mopacfirst
 

I have never seen any CB&T reefer except the first version (could it be called "A"?)  I probably have ten of those unbuilt.

I built four of them, with fairly extensive modifications, but they still looked awful.  Gloss-coated them, never applied any lettering.  Still in a box somewhere.  I remember drilling 64 holes for wire grab irons in each one.

Ron Merrick


Tim O'Connor
 

Ron

this is my list of the 'modernized' cars - I don't recall where
the "E" "B1" etc notation comes from. Dick Schweiger designed his
molds so he could apply different ends to the bodies.

R400    E   5' HD 3/3 end Preco DP roof (hinged door)
R600    B1  6' PD 4/4 end (circa 1954)  (plug door)
R700    C1  6' PD 4/4 end Preco         (plug door)
R800    E1  6' PD 3/3 end Preco DP roof (plug door)


On 2/2/2022 8:03 PM, mopacfirst wrote:
I have never seen any CB&T reefer except the first version (could it be called "A"?)  I probably have ten of those unbuilt.

I built four of them, with fairly extensive modifications, but they still looked awful.  Gloss-coated them, never applied any lettering.  Still in a box somewhere.  I remember drilling 64 holes for wire grab irons in each one.

Ron Merrick

--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


WILLIAM PARDIE
 

The November 1994 Rail Model Journal has  Richard Hendrickson article on upgrading the CB&T cars.

Bill Paardie



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "nyc3001 ." <nyc3001@...>
Date: 2/2/22 2:31 PM (GMT-10:00)
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Photo: SFRD 7029 (Rr-35)

The C&BT RR-35 to -40 and RR-43/45 kits appear on eBay at fairly low prices with some frequency under "Body Style C" and "Body Style D" respectively. 

The bodies are good, but many parts could be upgraded. 

-Phil Lee


WILLIAM PARDIE
 

The April 1993 Mainline Modeler also had a great article by Jim Teese on upgrading the CB&T cars.

How nice to have a library.

Bill Pardie



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "nyc3001 ." <nyc3001@...>
Date: 2/2/22 2:31 PM (GMT-10:00)
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Photo: SFRD 7029 (Rr-35)

The C&BT RR-35 to -40 and RR-43/45 kits appear on eBay at fairly low prices with some frequency under "Body Style C" and "Body Style D" respectively. 

The bodies are good, but many parts could be upgraded. 

-Phil Lee


kevinhlafferty
 

As others have stated those kits are a real nightmare. The parts sprues on the earliest kits were “salvageable” but as the tooling aged they became unusable. The flash on the sprues became as thick as the parts themselves; it was basically a blob of styrene. It’s been a while since I modified any, but as I recall on the early kits the roof sat too high and had to be lowered, and the coupler pockets mounted the couplers too low. The bodies are a good starting point but that’s about all. If you have another option (i.e. resin) I would go with that. YMMV.

 

Trying to stay warm in the tundra,

 

Kevin Lafferty

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of WILLIAM PARDIE
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2022 9:18 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Photo: SFRD 7029 (Rr-35)

 

The November 1994 Rail Model Journal has  Richard Hendrickson article on upgrading the CB&T cars.

 

Bill Paardie

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 

-------- Original message --------

From: "nyc3001 ." <nyc3001@...>

Date: 2/2/22 2:31 PM (GMT-10:00)

To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io

Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Photo: SFRD 7029 (Rr-35)

 

The C&BT RR-35 to -40 and RR-43/45 kits appear on eBay at fairly low prices with some frequency under "Body Style C" and "Body Style D" respectively. 

The bodies are good, but many parts could be upgraded. 

-Phil Lee


Tony Thompson
 

kevinhlafferty wrote:

As others have stated those kits are a real nightmare. The parts sprues on the earliest kits were “salvageable” but as the tooling aged they became unusable. The flash on the sprues became as thick as the parts themselves; it was basically a blob of styrene. It’s been a while since I modified any, but as I recall on the early kits the roof sat too high and had to be lowered, and the coupler pockets mounted the couplers too low. The bodies are a good starting point but that’s about all. If you have another option (i.e. resin) I would go with that. YMMV.

My advice has been, and is, throw away all parts sprues. The body moldings are fine, the rest is trash.

Tony Thompson



Alexander Schneider Jr
 

Tony, are better after market parts available and at what cost? These cars were pretty cheap when they were made and by the time you replace wheels and couplers you are running up the cost to the point you may be throwing good money after bad. Too bad as we can all use a few more background models. 

If you have a better approach I'd like to try it. 


Tim O'Connor
 


Years ago I stocked up on a small stash of roofs and parts from Intermountain (when they
were still making their own parts) to upgrade the C&BT kits. But it's still a major undertaking
to re-invent the kits because of the differences in how IM and C&BT kits are made. In the
end I just decided I didn't need many SFRD reefers - relatively uncommon on the SP.

Tim O'Connor

On 2/3/2022 2:25 AM, Tony Thompson wrote:
kevinhlafferty wrote:

As others have stated those kits are a real nightmare. The parts sprues on the earliest kits were “salvageable” but as the tooling aged they became unusable. The flash on the sprues became as thick as the parts themselves; it was basically a blob of styrene. It’s been a while since I modified any, but as I recall on the early kits the roof sat too high and had to be lowered, and the coupler pockets mounted the couplers too low. The bodies are a good starting point but that’s about all. If you have another option (i.e. resin) I would go with that. YMMV.

My advice has been, and is, throw away all parts sprues. The body moldings are fine, the rest is trash.

Tony Thompson


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Jay Styron
 

Cut off the C&BT coupler pockets and replace with standard Kadee, and you can get the coupler heights right. Then consult your parts stash for the rest.
-Jay


Nelson Moyer
 

I bought the MM DVD from the C&O Historical Society after then cut the price in half.

 

Nelson

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of WILLIAM PARDIE
Sent: Wednesday, February 2, 2022 9:22 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Photo: SFRD 7029 (Rr-35)

 

The April 1993 Mainline Modeler also had a great article by Jim Teese on upgrading the CB&T cars.

 

How nice to have a library.

 

Bill Pardie

 

 


Steve SANDIFER
 

I am interested in Intermountain parts. I have several of the CB&T that have the plug door that I want to build, but I know how terrible the CB&T parts are.  If anyone has some to sell, give me a holler. 

________________
Steve Sandifer


On Thursday, February 3, 2022, 07:53:38 AM CST, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:



Years ago I stocked up on a small stash of roofs and parts from Intermountain (when they
were still making their own parts) to upgrade the C&BT kits. But it's still a major undertaking
to re-invent the kits because of the differences in how IM and C&BT kits are made. In the
end I just decided I didn't need many SFRD reefers - relatively uncommon on the SP.

Tim O'Connor

On 2/3/2022 2:25 AM, Tony Thompson wrote:
kevinhlafferty wrote:

As others have stated those kits are a real nightmare. The parts sprues on the earliest kits were “salvageable” but as the tooling aged they became unusable. The flash on the sprues became as thick as the parts themselves; it was basically a blob of styrene. It’s been a while since I modified any, but as I recall on the early kits the roof sat too high and had to be lowered, and the coupler pockets mounted the couplers too low. The bodies are a good starting point but that’s about all. If you have another option (i.e. resin) I would go with that. YMMV.

My advice has been, and is, throw away all parts sprues. The body moldings are fine, the rest is trash.

Tony Thompson


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Tim O'Connor
 


I will be selling IM/Long's SFRD kits soon, so you could cannibalize those :-)


On 2/3/2022 12:35 PM, Steve SANDIFER wrote:
I am interested in Intermountain parts. I have several of the CB&T that have the plug door that I want to build, but I know how terrible the CB&T parts are.  If anyone has some to sell, give me a holler. 

________________
Steve Sandifer


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts