UP A-50-16 Correction Decals for Trix DD Boxcar


Bryian Sones
 

Ken,

The A-50-16 had a welded underframe.
If you are not going to model the underbody accurately and need something just to go under it nicely.....
I would use the Accurail Steel underframe. It matches up to the car fairly decent.
There is little to no sanding to get it to drop in.
   
If you want to take it a slight step further... Remove the rivets on the underframe and add some styrene strips to the underframe braces and at a glance it will look like a welded underframe.

Bryian Sones
Union Pacific Prototype Modeler
Murrieta, CA


On Tuesday, May 31, 2022, 04:36:14 PM PDT, Ken Adams <smadanek44g@...> wrote:


Ignore the last paragraph.  I had not waited long enough and a second application of ELO did remove the new date quite neatly without damage to the underlying paint.  It will take some time to remove the lettering and not damage the excellent base paint coat. 

Photos may follow.  I have yet to make a decision about the floor and underframe The floor is a metal casting coupler in knockoff of a Kadee NEM knuckle coupler in an NEM pocket on a floating  device to allow going around toy train 15 inch radius curves. Using a regular IM boxcar floor and underframe has been suggested but I am not sure I want to do all that work. This is still a two foot or more viewing distance model and I don't think it would be switched into the tiny SP Port Costa yard unless it was bad ordered.  The coupler is attached to the floor not the truck as in a Talgo style arrangement so would not present any operational difficulties being pulled in a through train.
__

Ken Adams
Omicron BA2.2 may come and go but I still live mostly in splendid Shelter In Place solitude
Location: About half way up Walnut Creek
Owner PlasticFreightCarBuilders@groups.io


Ken Adams
 

Ignore the last paragraph.  I had not waited long enough and a second application of ELO did remove the new date quite neatly without damage to the underlying paint.  It will take some time to remove the lettering and not damage the excellent base paint coat. 

Photos may follow.  I have yet to make a decision about the floor and underframe The floor is a metal casting coupler in knockoff of a Kadee NEM knuckle coupler in an NEM pocket on a floating  device to allow going around toy train 15 inch radius curves. Using a regular IM boxcar floor and underframe has been suggested but I am not sure I want to do all that work. This is still a two foot or more viewing distance model and I don't think it would be switched into the tiny SP Port Costa yard unless it was bad ordered.  The coupler is attached to the floor not the truck as in a Talgo style arrangement so would not present any operational difficulties being pulled in a through train.
__

Ken Adams
Omicron BA2.2 may come and go but I still live mostly in splendid Shelter In Place solitude
Location: About half way up Walnut Creek
Owner PlasticFreightCarBuilders@groups.io


Ken Adams
 

I am back to this project. 

Looking at a some of Dick's earlier comments and now having the National Scale Car/Speedwitch D102 set at hand my task has become a bit more complicated.  I had thought that it would be just a renumber and minor change to put the A-50-16 class and weights on the body.  But it is more complicated.  I did find Dick's timeline for the paint schemes for UP box cars.

I model 1950-54 and apparently the UP was going through some changes in the lettering during that period.  I am going to assume the car has not been repainted since mid-1947 changes to all yellow and that the lettering is still white reporting marks and data except the Serves All the West/ Road of the Streamliners logos which are in Armor yellow.  The D102 set  is white. lettering with a separate armor yellow logo sheet.  Fine and good as this will be okay for the early part of my modeling period. There are reweigh dates and locations on the white decal sheet f0r 5-49 and 7-50 which will fit nicely into the time period.

So now I have to remove nearly all or all the Trix lettering put on with good strong German paint and lettering.  In an initial trial to remove the New date, it was impervious to 70% IPA. It also resists Testors ELO (Easy Lift Off.)  So I am looking for other suggestions from anyone who has successfully  removed the Trix/Marklin lettering.  I don't think I could successfully overpaint the whole car and factory lettering without the lettering showing through the paint.  I no longer have on hand any of the stronger Floquil paint thinner. I am loath to waste any drops of the small amount of Star Brand thinner. 

--
Ken Adams
Omicron BA2.2 may come and go but I still live mostly in splendid Shelter In Place solitude
Location: About half way up Walnut Creek
Owner PlasticFreightCarBuilders@groups.io


Bryian Sones
 






Bryian Sones
Union Pacific Prototype Modeler
Murrieta, CA


On Wednesday, April 13, 2022, 09:43:47 AM PDT, Dick Harley via groups.io <dick.harley4up@...> wrote:



Tim,

Adding Info to a decal sheet for reweighs and journal repack or relube is always a dilemma when creating a decal sheet.  I try to include extra data and lettering for such info for the period that the particular lettering scheme was in effect.  But with UP, the BSSUP slogan stopped and the lettering color change from Armour Yellow to White in 1961.  So adding extra data in White to the all Armour Yellow sheet for BSSUP slogans is not something that occurred to me, nor have I discussed it with Microscale. 
Doing that might confuse more modelers than it helps.

Doing Armour Yellow lettering well is not possible with some decal manufacturing processes.  I'm trying to learn more about that.


Cheers,
Dick Harley
Laguna Beach,  CA

  


Dick Harley
 


Tim,

Adding Info to a decal sheet for reweighs and journal repack or relube is always a dilemma when creating a decal sheet.  I try to include extra data and lettering for such info for the period that the particular lettering scheme was in effect.  But with UP, the BSSUP slogan stopped and the lettering color change from Armour Yellow to White in 1961.  So adding extra data in White to the all Armour Yellow sheet for BSSUP slogans is not something that occurred to me, nor have I discussed it with Microscale. 
Doing that might confuse more modelers than it helps.

Doing Armour Yellow lettering well is not possible with some decal manufacturing processes.  I'm trying to learn more about that.


Cheers,
Dick Harley
Laguna Beach,  CA

  


Tim O'Connor
 


UP decals are always a problem because few sets for the Be Specific style also have reweigh
and capy and ld lmt numbers for post 1963 as well as 1960's shop stencils for the cars that
are not fully repainted. I could say the same for many road names. 🙁


On 4/12/2022 9:41 PM, Bryian Sones via groups.io wrote:
Hello,

I'm not sure what eras you guys are trying to model but for UP steam and Transition era cars a boxcar sheet is a boxcar sheet. It will do most of the work you need for just about any car. 
Identify your font height, color and slogans then look for sheets to match whatever you need. 
There are also Microscale full letter sheets in the UP. style font and colors. 
You may need to double check sheets for font errors as Dick H. mentioned, 
Also, color matches, withs etc. 
If you can stick with the same decal company most will match and you should be able to get the job done in most cases.

Reporting marks may have some challenges if you need to correct or redo. 
The process is the same, look for marks that are close and cut and splice. 
It's a little tedious but doable. 
If you don't want to do that then print them yourself or ask a friend. :)

I know it's not as convenient as having the exact sheet to match the class car you are doing but you can get the job done!

I hope this helps.
  
Bryian Sones
Union Pacific Prototype Modeler
Murrieta, CA


On Tuesday, April 12, 2022, 04:56:35 PM PDT, Dick Harley via groups.io <dick.harley4up@...> wrote:



No one has said what era the decals need to be, but Microscale does have a set that covers this group.  It is #87-494.  Admittedly, it has some serious errors (circle "O" 20-inch lettering) and needs to be redrawn, but it does have the A-50-16 class and plenty of car numbers.  For earlier eras, there is #87-489, but it is listed as out of stock.

I'd be curious to know what Ken found "unusable" about them.  Maybe we can fix them before they are reprinted.


Cheers,
Dick Harley
Laguna Beach,  CA 


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Bryian Sones
 

Hello,

I'm not sure what eras you guys are trying to model but for UP steam and Transition era cars a boxcar sheet is a boxcar sheet. It will do most of the work you need for just about any car. 
Identify your font height, color and slogans then look for sheets to match whatever you need. 
There are also Microscale full letter sheets in the UP. style font and colors. 
You may need to double check sheets for font errors as Dick H. mentioned, 
Also, color matches, withs etc. 
If you can stick with the same decal company most will match and you should be able to get the job done in most cases.

Reporting marks may have some challenges if you need to correct or redo. 
The process is the same, look for marks that are close and cut and splice. 
It's a little tedious but doable. 
If you don't want to do that then print them yourself or ask a friend. :)

I know it's not as convenient as having the exact sheet to match the class car you are doing but you can get the job done!

I hope this helps.
  
Bryian Sones
Union Pacific Prototype Modeler
Murrieta, CA


On Tuesday, April 12, 2022, 04:56:35 PM PDT, Dick Harley via groups.io <dick.harley4up@...> wrote:



No one has said what era the decals need to be, but Microscale does have a set that covers this group.  It is #87-494.  Admittedly, it has some serious errors (circle "O" 20-inch lettering) and needs to be redrawn, but it does have the A-50-16 class and plenty of car numbers.  For earlier eras, there is #87-489, but it is listed as out of stock.

I'd be curious to know what Ken found "unusable" about them.  Maybe we can fix them before they are reprinted.


Cheers,
Dick Harley
Laguna Beach,  CA  


  


Ken Adams
 

Dick, 

I try to confine my modeling to the 1948-52 period for freight rolling stock.  I would assume in that period that the car was still in it's original paint and lettering. I am not a UP specialist so if you say the #87-494 as advertised would be correct for an A-50-16 in this period, I will try to locate one.

Microscale's minimum order price is an economic barrier when you only want a few pieces of lettering from one decal. Even on paypal, the usually reliable Prantle's ad wants $13 including shipping.

In the meantime the Trix car can keep it's foobie status. It's not a lone foobie on my layout.

I need to find a copy of Richard Hendrickson's article on the UP A-50-16.  

best
--
Ken Adams
Omicron BA2.2 may come and go but I still live mostly in splendid Shelter In Place solitude
Location: About half way up Walnut Creek
Owner PlasticFreightCarBuilders@groups.io


Dick Harley
 


No one has said what era the decals need to be, but Microscale does have a set that covers this group.  It is #87-494.  Admittedly, it has some serious errors (circle "O" 20-inch lettering) and needs to be redrawn, but it does have the A-50-16 class and plenty of car numbers.  For earlier eras, there is #87-489, but it is listed as out of stock.

I'd be curious to know what Ken found "unusable" about them.  Maybe we can fix them before they are reprinted.


Cheers,
Dick Harley
Laguna Beach,  CA  


  


Wayne Cohen
 

I'm in the same boat as ken, except that I have three of them to correct.  Ken is entitled to first dibs, but should a source be found for more than one car, I would be interested once Ken is taken care of.

Thank you for bringing up this topic, Ken.

Wayne Cohen


Ken Adams
 

I just happened to acquire a mint Trix UP DD Boxcar but of course misslettered as a  UP A-50-19. 

Unfortunately the ex Speedwitch now National Scale Car D102 - Union Pacific A-50-16 Auto Car HO set is now listed as out of stock.  I checked K4 and they do not stock a comparable set. I really need the car number for renumbering, Class A-50-15 and repack info from the D102 set. I am unfamiliar with older Champ sets that might be usable. 

Does anyone have any other suggestions. I looked at Microscale UP boxcar sheets and did not find them usable.  I did not see the NSC/Speedwitch set on Ebay....

--

Ken Adams
Omicron BA2.2 may come and go but I still live mostly in splendid Shelter In Place solitude
Location: About half way up Walnut Creek
Owner PlasticFreightCarBuilders@groups.io