Canopy glue -another use


Brian Carlson
 

Working on an F&C F22 and the coupler box covers are friction fin not screws. Instead of CA I tried canopy glue thinking that if I ever needed to access the pocket for maintenance it might let me. Time will tell. Hold the lid nicely.

Brian J. Carlson


Paul Doggett
 

Brian

Could you not drill and tap it for a screw and if needs be a screw and washer.

Paul Doggett England 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

On 3 Jul 2021, at 15:19, Brian Carlson via groups.io <prrk41361=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Working on an F&C F22 and the coupler box covers are friction fin not screws. Instead of CA I tried canopy glue thinking that if I ever needed to access the pocket for maintenance it might let me. Time will tell. Hold the lid nicely.

Brian J. Carlson





Rich C
 

Good idea, Brian. I have used this method myself on many cars.

I also find that attaching stake pockets with canopy glue is much easier to control alignment than using CA's. I have yet to have a stake pocket flick off, using this method.

Rich Christie

On Saturday, July 3, 2021, 09:19:47 AM CDT, Brian Carlson via groups.io <prrk41361@...> wrote:


Working on an F&C F22 and the coupler box covers are friction fin not screws. Instead of CA I tried canopy glue thinking that if I ever needed to access the pocket for maintenance it might let me. Time will tell. Hold the lid nicely.

Brian J. Carlson






Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
 

Hi Brian and List members,
 
While I typically think that canopy glue is not as strong as CA, I do feel canopy glue holds up better under tension and shear than CA does, so hopefully you will be happily surprised by the results. Let us all know how this holds up!
 
 
Claus Schlund
 
 

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2021 10:19 AM
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Canopy glue -another use

Working on an F&C F22 and the coupler box covers are friction fin not screws. Instead of CA I tried canopy glue thinking that if I ever needed to access the pocket for maintenance it might let me. Time will tell. Hold the lid nicely.

Brian J. Carlson






Brian Carlson
 

Paul. If it was a boxcar yes. Being a flat I didn’t think I could get enough thread engagement. Not much to these cars.


Brian J. Carlson

On Jul 3, 2021, at 10:23 AM, Paul Doggett via groups.io <paul.doggett2472=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:

Brian

Could you not drill and tap it for a screw and if needs be a screw and washer.

Paul Doggett England 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿
On 3 Jul 2021, at 15:19, Brian Carlson via groups.io <prrk41361=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Working on an F&C F22 and the coupler box covers are friction fin not screws. Instead of CA I tried canopy glue thinking that if I ever needed to access the pocket for maintenance it might let me. Time will tell. Hold the lid nicely.

Brian J. Carlson








Tony Thompson
 

Brian Carlson wrote:

Paul. If it was a boxcar yes. Being a flat I didn’t think I could get enough thread engagement. Not much to these cars.
Brian, as an engineer, I’m sure you know that most of the work of a thread is in the first turn or two. Of course there can be a loosening problem with so few turns, but for load-bearing, not really.

Tony Thompson
tony@signaturepress.com


Paul Doggett
 

Brian

I hope the canopy glue holds I am sure it will be ok.
Cheers
Paul

On 3 Jul 2021, at 20:56, Tony Thompson <tony@signaturepress.com> wrote:



Brian Carlson wrote:

Paul. If it was a boxcar yes. Being a flat I didn’t think I could get enough thread engagement. Not much to these cars.
Brian, as an engineer, I’m sure you know that most of the work of a thread is in the first turn or two. Of course there can be a loosening problem with so few turns, but for load-bearing, not really.

Tony Thompson
tony@signaturepress.com






Nelson Moyer
 

To compliment Tony's post, I bought 3/16 and 1/4 in. pan machine screws to mount couplers and trucks on flat cars from FMW Fasteners. I use 3/8 and 1/2 in. machine screws for other cars, with the 1/2 in. screws for cars with removable floors. Drill carefully and don't tap for flat cars unless the deck is separately applied.. A depth stop on the drill press helps.

Nelson Moyer

-----Original Message-----
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Tony Thompson
Sent: Saturday, July 3, 2021 2:57 PM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Canopy glue -another use

Brian Carlson wrote:

Paul. If it was a boxcar yes. Being a flat I didn’t think I could get enough thread engagement. Not much to these cars.
Brian, as an engineer, I’m sure you know that most of the work of a thread is in the first turn or two. Of course there can be a loosening problem with so few turns, but for load-bearing, not really.

Tony Thompson
tony@signaturepress.com


G.J. Irwin
 

I have a friend whose seven year old son "purchased" an N Scale layout complete with equipment that is in the future for this group.  I needed to attach a Micro-Trains 1015 coupler to a Life-Like/Walthers switcher that was missing the attachment pin.  I tried canopy glue and it appears to have worked fine.

On the other hand, I tried canopy glue for an MTL coupler on an Intermountain tank car that is in the time period of this list, and managed to get a sufficient amount of glue into the coupler that it's now "frozen solid."  So I'm at .500, which would be great if I were a baseball player.  I suspect 'user error' in this second case.

--George Irwin


Jim Betz
 

George,
  Simply put the coupler "up" and apply a few drops of water and
the glue will soften and you can "fix" your mistake.  Let the
water sit on it for 15-30 minutes - or "as long as it takes".  It
will soften and you can take it apart and clean it all up and 
start over.
  Personally, I'd probably figure out a way to use styrene 
cement for anything related to "a coupler" because it will
provide a stronger/more positive joint.
                                                                                             - Jim