Tim,

As Andy Carlson already stated, the issue is that the height is incorrect with the trucks that come with the cars.  It is a fundamental issue with the underframe casting.  Since this underframe is used under many different Intermountain boxcars, it affects a large number of cars.  What I found interesting is that, as Andy stated, this has been a known problem for some time, but many modelers seem to forget about it (as I have at times).  This started with me posting a description of how I built a 40' Postwar AAR boxcar, including lowering the car, without even thinking about the significance of the issue, it is just something I do on Intermountain boxcars.  Not only were there a number of posts asking for more information, but I received a number of private emails from list members asking about how I lowered the car.  I didn't expect my description was going to raise so many questions.

I agree that with some brands of trucks additional work is required to maintain the correct height.  However, I have found that many (most) brands of trucks I use are very close in bolster height, requiring no extra efforts.  On the other hand, I just spent an hour making adjustments on an Atlas 1932 AAR boxcar to get the car to the correct height after putting on new trucks, including filing the metal bolster.

Again, thanks to Jim Brewer for putting together the document from the various emails. 

Sincerely,

Rich Remiarz

Vadnais Heights, MN

Andrew,

It adds more problems.  The molded center sill and bolsters on the IMWX/Red Caboose underframe are much thinner (~ 0.050") than on the Intermountain cars.  The lower 0.045" of the center sill and bolsters is molded on the bottom of the floor on the IMWX/Red Caboose cars (see attached photo).  Using this underframe on an Intermountain car requires shimming the underframe 0.045".  I learned this the hard way when I tried to use an IMWX/Red Caboose on a riveted PS-1 kitbash using an Intermountain 10' 6" boxcar.

Sincerely,

Rich Remiarz

Vadnais Heights, MN