Lettering removal proto 2000 hoppers


Doug Forbes
 

I have several black GM&O war emergency hoppers from Proto 2000.  I would like to remove the lettering and replace it with Illinois Terminal decals.  I have tried soaking the lettering with solvaset and separately with 91% isopropyl alcohol with no affect on the lettering what soever.  What do I try next?  Any suggestions would be appreciated. 


Kenneth Montero
 

I also would like to know.

Ken Montero

On 06/24/2022 11:32 PM Doug Forbes <dforbes@...> wrote:


I have several black GM&O war emergency hoppers from Proto 2000.  I would like to remove the lettering and replace it with Illinois Terminal decals.  I have tried soaking the lettering with solvaset and separately with 91% isopropyl alcohol with no affect on the lettering what soever.  What do I try next?  Any suggestions would be appreciated. 


Joseph
 

Try Super Clean Tough Task Cleaner( Home Despot ) carries it.  Soak a piece of paper towel and place over the lettering you want removed. If you search “Soo The Milwaukee Road” on youtube, William Sampson shows how he uses it in one of his videos
Joe Binish

On Fri, Jun 24, 2022 at 10:45 PM Kenneth Montero <va661midlo@...> wrote:
I also would like to know.

Ken Montero
On 06/24/2022 11:32 PM Doug Forbes <dforbes@...> wrote:


I have several black GM&O war emergency hoppers from Proto 2000.  I would like to remove the lettering and replace it with Illinois Terminal decals.  I have tried soaking the lettering with solvaset and separately with 91% isopropyl alcohol with no affect on the lettering what soever.  What do I try next?  Any suggestions would be appreciated. 


Jim Betz
 

Hi,

  I have not tried removing the lettering from a P2K hopper - having said that ...

  My go to method for removing factory lettering (which is an ink, not paint or decal) is
isopropyl and rubbing with the side of a round toothpick.  It has never failed to remove
the lettering and rarely affects the base color underneath.  I usually flood the area
with water or isopropyl to get all of the residue bits off.  And I let the first applications
of isopropyl sit on the model "until they start to evaporate" before using the toothpick.
  Rarely takes more than 2 or 3 tries - always works "eventually".   I don't consider
this task to be "quick" but it is easy enough and always works.
                                                                                                       - Jim in the PNW


Ted Larson
 

This comes to me with high recommendation for lettering removal.  



--
Ted Larson
Trainweb.org/MHRR   ---   GN in 1965   ---   NASG.org 


Doug Forbes
 

Jim, thanks for the suggestion. As you said, I applied 91% Isopropyl alcohol and let it set for a minute keeping it wet. I then used a wood toothpick and scraped. It worked great. Here is a finished photo. 

Thanks!
Doug


Jim Betz
 

  You're welcome.  Nice looking "undec" you ended up with.  Pretty much ready for
decals as is.  Many guys will go to the trouble of adding a gloss coat/future/etc.
before they decal.  My decal method does not use any 'surface prep' and I have
no problems with my decals "settling down".  Most guys will pooh-pooh my
methods for decals.  Once the decal is where I want it and settled down 
completely I overspray (or wash) with a dull coating of some sort - usually I
use simply a wash of dilute flat finish acrylics that I brush on ...
  Please remember/consider that I weather -all- of my stuff ... some heavier
and some lighter.  So my end goal is in mind and 100% crisp lettering is
not important - to me.
                                                                        - Jim in the PNW