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Looking for tips on transferring Clover House dry transfers to decal paper

Steve and Barb Hile
 

I have always struggled with using dry transfer products.  What kind of tips can anyone offer as to making successful transfers of the Clover House lettering to decal paper?  Proper burnishing techniques, etc.?

 

Thanks in advance,

Steve Hile

Lester Breuer
 

I have transferred Clover House dry transfers to decal paper many times.  I just lay the dry transfer carrier sheet on the decal paper on a flat firm surface ( I have a plate glass surface on my workbench which also acts as a surface plate) and use a nylon burnisher to go over dry transfers to transfer the dry transfer to the decal paper. When all desired transfer is made I cover the applied dry transfered lettering with the plain wax sheet enclosed with the dry transfers and again go lightly over the lettering with the nylon burnisher. When complete I cover the transferred lettering with MicroScale Liquid Decal Film.  Let dry for 20 minutes plus and you have a decal ready to apply. 

It also helps if the carrier sheet is used in a warm rather than cold environment.   Some individuals ( I do not as a norm) warm the dry transfer carrier sheet via light bulb.   

I personally do not like the metal burnisher tips as I have found they do not work as well as the nylon to transfer for me.

Lester Breuer

Douglas Harding
 

Make sure you have an edge square to the lettering, so you can line up the carrier (ie paper) properly. Use a piece of Scotch tape to tape the carrier to the model, this will keep it from shifting as you rub and it will allow you to lift to view progress and be able to lay back down if not all the transfer is complete.

 

You can use a variety of things to burnish with. A soft lead pencil works, but don’t use a sharp one that might poke the carrier paper. Woodland Scenics made a large soft plastic tool that works well for large images, but is not real good for small areas or crevices in the surface. A piece of soft strip wood, like balsa, can be used.

 

Make sure you cover the complete transfer when burnishing. But don’t over do it. I like to use a pencil because then I can where I have burnished and where I have missed. Too much burnishing will cause the transfer to stick to the carrier paper instead of the model. Rub enough to get the transfer to stick to the model surface. Once the entire transfer is stuck, you can remove the carrier paper, then you can switch to a non stick carrier and press harder with a final burnishing.

 

Doug Harding

www.iowacentralrr.org

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Steve and Barb Hile
Sent: Tuesday, July 7, 2020 11:47 AM
To: STMFC <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>; ResinFreightCarBuilders@groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Looking for tips on transferring Clover House dry transfers to decal paper

 

I have always struggled with using dry transfer products.  What kind of tips can anyone offer as to making successful transfers of the Clover House lettering to decal paper?  Proper burnishing techniques, etc.?

 

Thanks in advance,

Steve Hile

Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
 

Hi Doug, Steve, List Members,
 
It has also been my experience that burnishing 'squishes' the lettering somewhat, leading to distortion of the lettering on the final surface.
 
Thus I try to walk a fine line - burnish with just enough pressure to get good transfer, but not so much that you distort the fine lettering
 
Claus Schlund
 

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2020 1:28 PM
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Looking for tips on transferring Clover House dry transfers to decal paper

Make sure you have an edge square to the lettering, so you can line up the carrier (ie paper) properly. Use a piece of Scotch tape to tape the carrier to the model, this will keep it from shifting as you rub and it will allow you to lift to view progress and be able to lay back down if not all the transfer is complete.

 

You can use a variety of things to burnish with. A soft lead pencil works, but don’t use a sharp one that might poke the carrier paper. Woodland Scenics made a large soft plastic tool that works well for large images, but is not real good for small areas or crevices in the surface. A piece of soft strip wood, like balsa, can be used.

 

Make sure you cover the complete transfer when burnishing. But don’t over do it. I like to use a pencil because then I can where I have burnished and where I have missed. Too much burnishing will cause the transfer to stick to the carrier paper instead of the model. Rub enough to get the transfer to stick to the model surface. Once the entire transfer is stuck, you can remove the carrier paper, then you can switch to a non stick carrier and press harder with a final burnishing.

 

Doug Harding

www.iowacentralrr.org

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Steve and Barb Hile
Sent: Tuesday, July 7, 2020 11:47 AM
To: STMFC <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>; ResinFreightCarBuilders@groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Looking for tips on transferring Clover House dry transfers to decal paper

 

I have always struggled with using dry transfer products.  What kind of tips can anyone offer as to making successful transfers of the Clover House lettering to decal paper?  Proper burnishing techniques, etc.?

 

Thanks in advance,

Steve Hile

Tim O'Connor
 


tape down the dry transfer over the spot you want (so it doesn't move)

burnish with nylon or other plastic tool

apply Microscale liquid decal film

allow to dry

If you are using the alphabet sets, and want to keep letters straight, make a line in the paper with a
knife or other tool and stay on that line. burnish - coat - dry as above.





On 7/7/2020 12:46 PM, Steve and Barb Hile wrote:

I have always struggled with using dry transfer products.  What kind of tips can anyone offer as to making successful transfers of the Clover House lettering to decal paper?  Proper burnishing techniques, etc.?

 

Thanks in advance,

Steve Hile



--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts

Steve and Barb Hile
 

Thanks to Tim, Doug, Claus, Lester and John for the good advice.  I was working on a softer pine desk top and tried a variety of burnishing devices, with fairly poor results.  I moved to a much harder desktop surface and tried the butt end of a wooden paint brush and my finger nail with decent results, taping down one side to allow me to see what was attaching to the paper and what was not.

 

A few more sets are on order, along with some other burnishing tools and the MS liquid decal film.  I tried Future on an early test, with middling results.  The challenge is doing a multi-color decal in layers of transfers.

 

Thanks again!

Steve Hile

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Tim O'Connor
Sent: Tuesday, July 7, 2020 3:38 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Looking for tips on transferring Clover House dry transfers to decal paper

 


tape down the dry transfer over the spot you want (so it doesn't move)

burnish with nylon or other plastic tool

apply Microscale liquid decal film

allow to dry

If you are using the alphabet sets, and want to keep letters straight, make a line in the paper with a
knife or other tool and stay on that line. burnish - coat - dry as above.





On 7/7/2020 12:46 PM, Steve and Barb Hile wrote:

I have always struggled with using dry transfer products.  What kind of tips can anyone offer as to making successful transfers of the Clover House lettering to decal paper?  Proper burnishing techniques, etc.?

 

Thanks in advance,

Steve Hile

 


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts

Tim O'Connor
 

Steve

I use a plastic cutting mat on my table tops. These come in many sizes and are really handy for all modeling uses.
Here is an example - https://www.connectingthreads.com/omnigrid-mat/p/81690

Tim O'


On 7/9/2020 12:02 AM, Steve and Barb Hile wrote:

Thanks to Tim, Doug, Claus, Lester and John for the good advice.  I was working on a softer pine desk top and tried a variety of burnishing devices, with fairly poor results.  I moved to a much harder desktop surface and tried the butt end of a wooden paint brush and my finger nail with decent results, taping down one side to allow me to see what was attaching to the paper and what was not.

 

A few more sets are on order, along with some other burnishing tools and the MS liquid decal film.  I tried Future on an early test, with middling results.  The challenge is doing a multi-color decal in layers of transfers.

 

Thanks again!

Steve Hile


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts