Material to patch holes or small cracks
On 20 Mar 2023, at 11:46, wrlyders via groups.io <blyders@...> wrote:
If I have a nail hole or small crack in my plater wall at home I use patching plaster to cover it.
But what can I use if I have a drill hole or small crack in my plastic/styrene model to make a smooth surface?
And extra heavy paint should not be the answer.
Thanks,
Bill L
Kevin
NGMC
If I have a nail hole or small crack in my plater wall at home I use
patching plaster to cover it.
But what can I use if I have a drill hole or small crack in my
plastic/styrene model to make a smooth surface?
And extra heavy paint should not be the answer.
Thanks,
Bill L
Links:
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[1] https://RealSTMFC.groups.io/g/main/message/199790
[2] https://groups.io/mt/97728967/645454
[3] https://RealSTMFC.groups.io/g/main/post
[4] https://RealSTMFC.groups.io/g/main/editsub/645454
[5] https://RealSTMFC.groups.io/g/main/leave/11334620/645454/765963421/xyzzy
Kevin Macomber
NGMC
(717) 474-8399
www.narrowgaugemodeling.com
Sent: Monday, March 20, 2023 8:20 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Material to patch holes or small cracks
Goes on smooth, dries quickly, and sands easily.
Bill,
As Indicated by others, there are a variety of methods to use to fill holes like this:
- Glue in a piece of plastic rod, sprue, or whatever was meant to go in the hole originally, let the glue set, and trim the plastic flush with the surface and sand.
- Fill with putty. So many brands. I use Bondo glazing putty, other use Squadron Green, and many other brands. Some people make their own using waste plastic dissolved in MEK or other plastic dissolving glues. Putty may require multiple applications as it may shrink and need to be reapplied. Sand the surface when dry.
- Fill with Cyaonoacrylate (CA/ACC) glue. Some folks prefer the “thick” for this, other use thin, others use CA mixed with baking soda. It often pays to sand it once dry, but not fully cured as it can get kinda hard.
Regardless of method, you may want to make mini-sanding sticks to just get that area. I use a piece of .1 x .1 or similar styrene or wood cut at 45 degrees with some 320 grit sand paper glued on the ends. There are also commercial sanding sticks and other products like mini-sanding blocks (e.g. National Scale Car).
Regards,
Bruce
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL
From: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of "wrlyders via groups.io" <blyders@...>
Reply-To: "main@RealSTMFC.groups.io" <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Date: Monday, March 20, 2023 at 6:46 AM
To: "main@RealSTMFC.groups.io" <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: [EXT] [RealSTMFC] Material to patch holes or small cracks
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If I have a nail hole or small crack in my plater wall at home I use patching plaster to cover it.
But what can I use if I have a drill hole or small crack in my plastic/styrene model to make a smooth surface?
And extra heavy paint should not be the answer.
Thanks,
Bill L
But, sadly, doesn't have a very long shelf life once it is first openedI have never tried 3M Bondo, but can you mix it with water to extend the shelf life? I have done this before with Squadron Green, and other putties. Just curious.
--
Bill Parks
Cumming, GA
Modelling the Seaboard Airline in Central Florida
Hi List Members,
I agree with Tony, Squadron Green (and also Squadron White) is OK, but the TAMIYA putty is much easier to work with
When I want a more fluid putty, I have in the past placed a bit
of the TAMIYA putty and a drop of Scalecoat Washaway paint remover
onto a plastic surface and used an artists micro-spatula to mix
them. This gives a more liquidy putty, but at the expense of
additional shrinkage as it sets up
Claus Schlund
\Paul Doggett \wrote:
I use Squadron green putty I think that they do other colours as well.
I used that stuff for years, and liked it, but the Tamiya putty really is better.
Kevin
NGMC
It was stated, “But, sadly, doesn't have a very long shelf life once
it is first opened.” It being scrap plastic melted in MEK which I
call MEK Goop (photo).
Once opened if you add more MEK to the MEK Goop via eyedropper each
week or after each use it will have a never ending shelf life.
Lester Breuer
Plymouth, MN
Links:
------
[1] https://RealSTMFC.groups.io/g/main/message/199808
[2] https://groups.io/mt/97728967/645454
[3] https://RealSTMFC.groups.io/g/main/post
[4] https://RealSTMFC.groups.io/g/main/editsub/645454
[5] https://RealSTMFC.groups.io/g/main/leave/11334620/645454/765963421/xyzzy
Kevin Macomber
NGMC
(717) 474-8399
www.narrowgaugemodeling.com
Good day all,
I’ve had great success over the years using a marine product called iNTERLUX SURFACING PUTTY.
I have an 8oz. can that I’ve had for over 60 years. I have built Great Lakes ship models for museums
and private collections as well as being an avid model railroader. The stuff works very well on wood
as well as styrene and clean resin. If it thickens up I bring it back with lacquer thinner.
I checked their website and it is still available mostly from marine dealers.
Dave Lawler
Avon Lake, Ohio
Sent from Mail for Windows
Many long years ago (early 60s), I had become dissatisfied with the small tube of “body” filler packaged in some of the model car customizing kits of the time. After I migrated to bottles of Testers liquid cement from tube glue and discovered if you cut parts sprues into small pieces and dropped them into the liquid cement remaining at the bottom of partially used bottles, the resulting goo could seamlessly fill gaps if allowed to fully harden when the solvents evaporated, it became my “go to” filler. Adjusting the ratio by adding more sprue or cement made it easy to get a workable solution.
The major drawback was the time it took for the solvents to evaporate (sometimes days), allowing the “goo” to fully harden, and remembering to use undiluted cement on the mating surfaces before hand to soften them so it would bond them into one part.
--
Ted Larson
trainweb.org/mhrr/ -------- NASG.org -------- https://www.nasg.org/Clubs/RegionsMinnesota.php
GN in 1965