MTC 71979


Clark Propst
 

On the 8th I finished assembling a F&C kit of a B&M XM-1 box car. I really enjoy these ‘old school’ kits...No etched parts! Car slapped together quickly in three settings. Just painted it with tru-color, so decals later today I hope. Model is primed with Tamiya gray. I’m thinking of decaling it for subsidiary MTC to be different...My wife always says I different anyway...  I didn’t read the instructions, but the only deviation was to replace the sill steps provided with A-Line “Style A” and of course that crappy green floral wire with Tichy .015” wire for brake piping and rods. Oh, and a piece of jewelry chain. My wife once asked me if I could get a knot out of a necklace, Of course I couldn’t, knowing It would work for brake chain  ;  ))
On the morning of the 9th I painted this model’s body with Tru-color Rich Oxide Red I used their grimy black on the separate underframe. Later that morning I decaled one side. That afternoon I decaled the other, I always have to chuckle because first side takes three times as long to decal as the second. After supper I airbrushed the underframe with a 50/50 mix of Dullcote and lacquer thinner. On the body I first sprayed on a mix on thinned Dullcote with some Testers ‘little square bottle’ brown as a tint. Next I tried to just spray the wood sections of the sides with a Dullcote mix with an off white as a tint. All a short wait I weathered by applying Raw Umber Pan Pastel to the underframe before and after adding the trucks which were also dullcoted when I did the underframe. I also used that Pan Pastel color along the bottom of the sides and for wheel splash on the ends. Next was a light application of PP black to the roof and ends applied with the same soft round cosmetic brush used in the underframe. The wheel splash on the ends and for applying black on the exposed tops of the sides (what the roof didn’t cover) I used a thin angled brush. I also used that angled brush to add a little light gray PP an either side of the doors. Lastly I used a color gray, black, reddish brown and brown Prismacolor pencils to weather some side boards and the running board. When I was using a pencil to add boot scuffs behind the side ladders I chipped off a bit of paint. One of my main complaints of F&C kits is poor paint adhesion. This time I soaked the model in “Shout” as they recommend and before painting I doused it with a wash of alcohol, but didn’t help much behind the ladders I guess?  Probably took a half hour to do the weathering. Mainly because I didn’t care to watch the TV show my wife had on  ;  ))
Clark Propst
Viewing the photos I see the brake step isn't setting properly. I'll see if I can correct that? Sometimes the camera's your best modeling tool...


Schuyler Larrabee
 

Remarkable result, Clark.  Excellent looking model.

 

Schuyler

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Clark Propst via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2021 11:35 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] MTC 71979

 

On the 8th I finished assembling a F&C kit of a B&M XM-1 box car. I really enjoy these ‘old school’ kits...No etched parts! Car slapped together quickly in three settings. Just painted it with tru-color, so decals later today I hope. Model is primed with Tamiya gray. I’m thinking of decaling it for subsidiary MTC to be different...My wife always says I different anyway...  I didn’t read the instructions, but the only deviation was to replace the sill steps provided with A-Line “Style A” and of course that crappy green floral wire with Tichy .015” wire for brake piping and rods. Oh, and a piece of jewelry chain. My wife once asked me if I could get a knot out of a necklace, Of course I couldn’t, knowing It would work for brake chain  ;  ))

On the morning of the 9th I painted this model’s body with Tru-color Rich Oxide Red I used their grimy black on the separate underframe. Later that morning I decaled one side. That afternoon I decaled the other, I always have to chuckle because first side takes three times as long to decal as the second. After supper I airbrushed the underframe with a 50/50 mix of Dullcote and lacquer thinner. On the body I first sprayed on a mix on thinned Dullcote with some Testers ‘little square bottle’ brown as a tint. Next I tried to just spray the wood sections of the sides with a Dullcote mix with an off white as a tint. All a short wait I weathered by applying Raw Umber Pan Pastel to the underframe before and after adding the trucks which were also dullcoted when I did the underframe. I also used that Pan Pastel color along the bottom of the sides and for wheel splash on the ends. Next was a light application of PP black to the roof and ends applied with the same soft round cosmetic brush used in the underframe. The wheel splash on the ends and for applying black on the exposed tops of the sides (what the roof didn’t cover) I used a thin angled brush. I also used that angled brush to add a little light gray PP an either side of the doors. Lastly I used a color gray, black, reddish brown and brown Prismacolor pencils to weather some side boards and the running board. When I was using a pencil to add boot scuffs behind the side ladders I chipped off a bit of paint. One of my main complaints of F&C kits is poor paint adhesion. This time I soaked the model in “Shout” as they recommend and before painting I doused it with a wash of alcohol, but didn’t help much behind the ladders I guess?  Probably took a half hour to do the weathering. Mainly because I didn’t care to watch the TV show my wife had on  ;  ))
Clark Propst
Viewing the photos I see the brake step isn't setting properly. I'll see if I can correct that? Sometimes the camera's your best modeling tool...


Bob Chaparro
 

Nice work.
Any history on the prototype?
Bob Chaparro
Hemet, CA


Schleigh Mike
 

Nice job on this interesting twist on the B&M XM-1 fleet, Clark----

You might like to know that the road number you chose, 71979, was scrapped at the end of February, 1956, well past your modeling time.  Back then the MTC cars went everywhere the BM labelled cars would go and, interestingly, for most of their operation, the "MTC" distinction was not to be found in the ORER listings.

Regards to all----from Grove City, Penna.----Mike Schleigh

On Wednesday, June 9, 2021, 11:35:21 AM EDT, Clark Propst via groups.io <cepropst@...> wrote:


On the 8th I finished assembling a F&C kit of a B&M XM-1 box car. I really enjoy these ‘old school’ kits...No etched parts! Car slapped together quickly in three settings. Just painted it with tru-color, so decals later today I hope. Model is primed with Tamiya gray. I’m thinking of decaling it for subsidiary MTC to be different...My wife always says I different anyway...  I didn’t read the instructions, but the only deviation was to replace the sill steps provided with A-Line “Style A” and of course that crappy green floral wire with Tichy .015” wire for brake piping and rods. Oh, and a piece of jewelry chain. My wife once asked me if I could get a knot out of a necklace, Of course I couldn’t, knowing It would work for brake chain  ;  ))
On the morning of the 9th I painted this model’s body with Tru-color Rich Oxide Red I used their grimy black on the separate underframe. Later that morning I decaled one side. That afternoon I decaled the other, I always have to chuckle because first side takes three times as long to decal as the second. After supper I airbrushed the underframe with a 50/50 mix of Dullcote and lacquer thinner. On the body I first sprayed on a mix on thinned Dullcote with some Testers ‘little square bottle’ brown as a tint. Next I tried to just spray the wood sections of the sides with a Dullcote mix with an off white as a tint. All a short wait I weathered by applying Raw Umber Pan Pastel to the underframe before and after adding the trucks which were also dullcoted when I did the underframe. I also used that Pan Pastel color along the bottom of the sides and for wheel splash on the ends. Next was a light application of PP black to the roof and ends applied with the same soft round cosmetic brush used in the underframe. The wheel splash on the ends and for applying black on the exposed tops of the sides (what the roof didn’t cover) I used a thin angled brush. I also used that angled brush to add a little light gray PP an either side of the doors. Lastly I used a color gray, black, reddish brown and brown Prismacolor pencils to weather some side boards and the running board. When I was using a pencil to add boot scuffs behind the side ladders I chipped off a bit of paint. One of my main complaints of F&C kits is poor paint adhesion. This time I soaked the model in “Shout” as they recommend and before painting I doused it with a wash of alcohol, but didn’t help much behind the ladders I guess?  Probably took a half hour to do the weathering. Mainly because I didn’t care to watch the TV show my wife had on  ;  ))
Clark Propst
Viewing the photos I see the brake step isn't setting properly. I'll see if I can correct that? Sometimes the camera's your best modeling tool...


Rich C
 

Excellent work, Clark
Rich Christie

On Wednesday, June 9, 2021, 10:35:20 AM CDT, Clark Propst via groups.io <cepropst@...> wrote:


On the 8th I finished assembling a F&C kit of a B&M XM-1 box car. I really enjoy these ‘old school’ kits...No etched parts! Car slapped together quickly in three settings. Just painted it with tru-color, so decals later today I hope. Model is primed with Tamiya gray. I’m thinking of decaling it for subsidiary MTC to be different...My wife always says I different anyway...  I didn’t read the instructions, but the only deviation was to replace the sill steps provided with A-Line “Style A” and of course that crappy green floral wire with Tichy .015” wire for brake piping and rods. Oh, and a piece of jewelry chain. My wife once asked me if I could get a knot out of a necklace, Of course I couldn’t, knowing It would work for brake chain  ;  ))
On the morning of the 9th I painted this model’s body with Tru-color Rich Oxide Red I used their grimy black on the separate underframe. Later that morning I decaled one side. That afternoon I decaled the other, I always have to chuckle because first side takes three times as long to decal as the second. After supper I airbrushed the underframe with a 50/50 mix of Dullcote and lacquer thinner. On the body I first sprayed on a mix on thinned Dullcote with some Testers ‘little square bottle’ brown as a tint. Next I tried to just spray the wood sections of the sides with a Dullcote mix with an off white as a tint. All a short wait I weathered by applying Raw Umber Pan Pastel to the underframe before and after adding the trucks which were also dullcoted when I did the underframe. I also used that Pan Pastel color along the bottom of the sides and for wheel splash on the ends. Next was a light application of PP black to the roof and ends applied with the same soft round cosmetic brush used in the underframe. The wheel splash on the ends and for applying black on the exposed tops of the sides (what the roof didn’t cover) I used a thin angled brush. I also used that angled brush to add a little light gray PP an either side of the doors. Lastly I used a color gray, black, reddish brown and brown Prismacolor pencils to weather some side boards and the running board. When I was using a pencil to add boot scuffs behind the side ladders I chipped off a bit of paint. One of my main complaints of F&C kits is poor paint adhesion. This time I soaked the model in “Shout” as they recommend and before painting I doused it with a wash of alcohol, but didn’t help much behind the ladders I guess?  Probably took a half hour to do the weathering. Mainly because I didn’t care to watch the TV show my wife had on  ;  ))
Clark Propst
Viewing the photos I see the brake step isn't setting properly. I'll see if I can correct that? Sometimes the camera's your best modeling tool...


Nelson Moyer
 

The camera is not only a valuable tool, but it’s your worst critic.

 

The XM-1 turned out fine despite the Tru Color travails. With Tru Color, it really important to check everything by taking pictures after priming. That way it’s a lot easier to make corrections. Once you paint with Tru Color, it’s very difficult to make paint touch-ups because the new paint softens and mixes with the old paint, smears, allows contrasting colors to bleed through, and other headaches. Tru Color isn’t meant for brush painting, though I’ll try to salvage a paint job with a brush as a last resort before stripping and starting again. Of course, if the accidents occur after decals are applied, that means a new set of decals.

 

For example, I’ve been working on the truss rod FGE reefer mini-kit from Chicagoland 1918, and I’ve made about every mistake imaginable while trying to get a decent paint job. First problem was some gouges from removing molded grab irons that I didn’t see until after the sides were painted yellow. I removed the paint using a Q-Tip wetted with lacquer thinner to remove the paint and Tamiya white putty to fill the dings. I scribed the board groves with mixed results, brush primed with Tamiya gray primer out of a bottle, and sprayed the sides yellow again. After applying the roof and end details, I snapped the sides in place and glued in the floor, which also glued the sides down.  I marked the location of the brake foot, brake step, and upper brake staff bracket, then glued the brake step onto the B end. I inserted the brake staff, and painted  the roof and ends. To my dismay, I noticed that the brake staff was leaning left two board widths. Ouch. I removed the brake step, destroying it in the process, used CA remover to remove the CA and surrounding paint, sanded and primed the end damage, built a new brake step, primed it, and mounted it properly. While adding the brake staff the second time, I unknowingly got glue on a finger, so when I picked up the car body, I got a glue spot on the side paint. I put a drop of CA remover on the glue spot, and it promptly removed the glue, the paint, and the primer, so I had a circle of raw resin the size of a dime. I feathered the paint edges with 1000 grit sandpaper, primed the bare resin, masked the side with Tamiya curvable tape, PostIt notes, and my gloved fingers, and applied a few very light coats of paint with my air brush to blend the spot into the side paint. After the side dried, I used the same masking process to paint the B end damage from replacing the brake step. While checking the car before applying decals, I notices some yellow overspray on the outer truss rod, the roof fascia, and the roof. I brush painted the truss rod black, brush painted the fascia mineral red and airbrushed the roof mineral red. Thinking I was finished painting, I applied decals, only to notice a very light yellow overspray on the roof in two panels near the edge. I used a brush to touch up the paint, and ran into the usual Tru Color bane of smeared undercoat, and paint mixing. The brushed paint dried slightly globby, so I sanded it lightly, masked the side, and airbrushed the edge of the roof mineral red. All was well – or was it? A little mineral red wicked down the groove between two side boards about a half inch, leaving two parallel lines on my yellow side. Fortunately, the mineral red paint stopped short of the REFERIGERATOR decal. I tried to scrape the mineral red paint out of the groove with a dental pick with mixed success, the masked the fascia, roof, and decal, and airbrushed yellow paint over the board grooves. At that point, I quit. After all, it’s just a cheap plastic model.

 

I have never has such a series of undesirable events while building and painting a model, and Tru Color certainly compounded the difficulty of repairing damage. I think I’ve moved beyond slippage into early regression. Clark, if you decide to replace the brake step, you have my sincere sympathy.

 

Nelson Moyer


Tony Thompson
 

     I like the model, Clark, good weathering touches. Glad you shared it.

Tony Thompson




akerboomk
 

RE: History of these cars:

 

Try this:

https://www.bmrrhs.org/box_71000_series/

 

I am working on collating the B&M “Disposition records” for these cars, I hope to add that data in the next month or 2.

If anyone has anything else to add, let me know…

 

Ken


--
Ken Akerboom