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[Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rusty rivets?

Gatwood, Elden J SAD
 

Thanks, guys!

It is subtle, but I drybrush with a lighter version of the base coat, either a little yellow added to Freight Car Color (X31F), or even white in the case of the Alco S4 roof; see attached. Start subtle, add more if you feel the need, after looking at it a few days.

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Gatwood, Elden J SAD
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2019 8:47 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rusty rivets?

Scott;

I am very fond of drybrushing rivets, over a background of dark rust wash in the seams and around the base of the rivets, to make them pop. See attached for example.

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of D. Scott Chatfield
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2019 12:27 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rusty rivets?

Archer rivets and their clones have changed the way many of us approach kitbashing and scratchbuilding. But while looking at some prototype photos for current projects I noticed that what I really need are rust colored rivets, and they need to be applied after painting the car. I know most of you apply the rivets then paint the car, but I model post-1960 for the most part, when most riveted cars would have lost the paint over the rivets. Paint doesn't stick to rivets well, and that isn't just a post-1960 problem.

Thoughts?

Scott Chatfield