Topics

Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish


Steve and Barb Hile
 

I paint pretty exclusively with acrylics, Badger, PollyScale, Model Masters, etc.  But I will use Dullcote, or similar, in a spray can for a final flat.  After many years of dreading painting, I now have a good compressor, tank, trap, regulator, etc. as well as a nice Paasche booth with fan and filter.  Currently, I move the booth onto the washer, next to the basement sink, when I am ready to paint for quick clean up.
 
Steve Hile

 


Pat M Duffin
 

Has anyone tried spraying the new Rustoleum  with an airbrush?


On Jan 16, 2017, at 10:03 AM, 'Steve and Barb Hile' shile@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:

 

I paint pretty exclusively with acrylics, Badger, PollyScale, Model Masters, etc.  But I will use Dullcote, or similar, in a spray can for a final flat.  After many years of dreading painting, I now have a good compressor, tank, trap, regulator, etc. as well as a nice Paasche booth with fan and filter.  Currently, I move the booth onto the washer, next to the basement sink, when I am ready to paint for quick clean up.
 
Steve Hile

 


Bill Keene <wakeene@...>
 

Hello Group,

The Rust-Oleum “Dead Flat Clear” sound interesting and worth a try.

The comment about having issues using Dullcoat from the spray can I fully understand. My solution to this was to be sure that the can was well shook and then spray it directly into my air brush cup — within the paint booth, of course, as there is a good deal of spray floating about — then apply to the model. That said, I am wondering if the Rust-Oleum comes in a can or bottle along with the rattle can? If not, then perhaps spraying into a jar and then using that to spray from an air brush might be a good solution.

Cheers,
Bill Keene
Irvine, CA


On Jan 16, 2017, at 8:03 AM, 'Bruce F. Smith' smithbf@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:


Greg,


My approach is very similar to Chuck Cover.  I use spray cans of Model Master Acryl black on ALL my brass models as a primer coat, and then typically top coat that with acrylics with my airbrush. The Model Master spray bombs work great and the paint is fantastic, with very fine particles and a nice ability to self level.  I honestly wish that there were more colors that I could use for top coats in that line.


As a note, I have had nothing but terrible results from Dullcoat in a spray can. 


Regards

Bruce Smith

Auburn, AL


From: STMFC@... <STMFC@...> on behalf of tgregmrtn@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...>
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2017 1:24 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish
 


How many guys here use spray cans to paint their HO Scale equipment? In today's world why wouldn't you have acquired even the most economic airbrush?  
 
Show of hands... 
 
Greg Martin  
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 
In a message dated 1/15/2017 3:12:25 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, STMFC@... writes:
 



At yesterday's Great Train Show I talked with Joel Bragdon, the weathering powder entrepreneur, about base and finish coatings for use with chalks and powders.

 


He mentioned that Rust-Oleum announced a new coating last March called "Dead Flat Clear" and that he likes the product. Here is a photo link:

 



 


I did a little searching and found that Home Depot and Lowe's both carry it.

 


Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA







Denny Anspach
 

I too have used spray cans of various origins for a number of broad-based or background model painting projects over the years NOT requiring precision or critical application , including Floquil, Pactra, and Krylon. Aside from issues of paint clogging (@#$%^&###, but correctable), the biggest and most irritating issue has been running out of propellant long before the can is empty of paint. This has been so especially with expensive Floquil. I suspect that I run out of it because of the need to use so much of the propellant to clear the nozzle and prevent clogging after each short use!

Like Don V, I also have used successfully my old Paasche single action air brush, first purchased and used in the early ‘50s. What a fine instrument! That said, on a whim on the receiving end of a very persuasive salesman, I purchased an Iwata Eclipse double action five years ago, and……I have never looked back.

Denny

Denny S. Anspach, MD
Sacramento, CA 95864


George
 

The answer is simple:  clean up.

I've used an airbrush since the 1970s, but I also like to use a spray can whenever possible because you don't have to clean up after it.  I usually use the small cans of Dullcoat as a final finish, but I will definitely try the Rust-Oleum product.

George York


Gary Ray
 

I haven’t tried the new Rustoleum, but I custom mix their Camouflage paint for ties and also use their primer for rails. I hot glue a flex straw to the nozzle and spray it into a deep jar.  You cannot do a whole can at a time because the paint has to be decanted to get the propellant out.  Fasted way (but could be messy as paint boils up) is to use an electric stirrer.  Just letting it sit for a few days works better.  I dilute the paint with the old type lacquer thinner.  I use an OSHA approved spray mask with NEW filters.  I have a free standing building for the layout.  I also keep doors open at both ends with a fan blowing air in at one end and blowing out at the other.  I use the paint in a Badger Patriot 105 (gravity feed) which is easier to clean than another brand I have which is siphon feed.

 

Gary Ray

 

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2017 8:10 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

 




Has anyone tried spraying the new Rustoleum  with an airbrush?


On Jan 16, 2017, at 10:03 AM, 'Steve and Barb Hile' shile@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:

 

I paint pretty exclusively with acrylics, Badger, PollyScale, Model Masters, etc.  But I will use Dullcote, or similar, in a spray can for a final flat.  After many years of dreading painting, I now have a good compressor, tank, trap, regulator, etc. as well as a nice Paasche booth with fan and filter.  Currently, I move the booth onto the washer, next to the basement sink, when I am ready to paint for quick clean up.

 

Steve Hile

 

 







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Jon Miller
 

On 1/16/2017 8:43 AM, Bill Keene wakeene@... [STMFC] wrote:

The Rust-Oleum “Dead Flat Clear” sound interesting and worth a try.

    I can see it's use for scenery(trees, etc.) and will check it out.  Normally I look at spray can paint as opposed to paint for an airbrush kind of like thin ACC vs thick ACC!

-- 
Jon Miller
For me time stopped in 1941
Digitrax  Chief/Zephyr systems, JMRI User
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS


Benjamin Hom
 

Bill Keene asked:
"That said, I am wondering if the Rust-Oleum comes in a can or bottle along with the rattle can? If not, then perhaps spraying into a jar and then using that to spray from an air brush might be a good solution."

Decanting paint from spray cans:


Schuyler Larrabee
 

Wait!!! You mean, paint comes in CANS?



I never use spray cans for model work. I want control over what, where and how much paint I apply.



I have a Binks Wren (two, actually) even still, and have gotten compliments on the results, and have even done custom painting using them. The Binks compressor finally gave out (acquired about 1975) and I bought a Harbor Freight horizontal tank compressor to replace that, which is fine but kind of noisy. I built a spray booth, which goes out the same window opening as the clothes dryer (but not at the same time!) which was fitted (by others) with a dryer vent fitting through a piece of plexi. That will be upgraded to simply through the wall this summer, when the basement rework is closer to being complete.



The Rust Oleum flat sounds interesting, but as faithful readers may recall, years ago I came across a flat lacquer used in the professional photographer trade to spray finished photos after they’d been retouched. Of course, now, ‘retouching” happens in the computer but you can still buy that flat a lacquer at a good paint store, the only problem being that it comes only in gallon size, and needs to be let down about 4:1 with lacquer thinner.



I have used acrylics, but I don’t like them, and they don’t like me.



Schuyler



From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2017 2:24 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish





How many guys here use spray cans to paint their HO Scale equipment? In today's world why wouldn't you have acquired even the most economic airbrush?



Show of hands...



Greg Martin



Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean



In a message dated 1/15/2017 3:12:25 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, STMFC@... writes:



At yesterday's Great Train Show I talked with Joel Bragdon, the weathering powder entrepreneur, about base and finish coatings for use with chalks and powders.



He mentioned that Rust-Oleum announced a new coating last March called "Dead Flat Clear" and that he likes the product. Here is a photo link:



<http://tinyurl.com/jnou4lu> http://tinyurl.com/jnou4lu



I did a little searching and found that Home Depot and Lowe's both carry it.



Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Tony Thompson
 

       I am very apprehensive with spray cans and always get the spray going on a card before deciding if it is "burping" globs of paint or not. But if it sprays okay and I can spray from a distance where it is almost drying before arrival, I find most brands work well. I have used a number of Tamiya colors in spray cans with good result.
       But most railroad colors, and any really good model, I would certainly use either my Badger or Iwata airbrush. I would echo those who have emphasized cleaning -- I learned this many years ago and ALWAYS clean immediately after use. Sometimes I realize I missed a spot and have to reload, repaint, and re-clean, but I ALWAYS clean upon stopping painting. All my brushes work fine.

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history






Bill Keene <wakeene@...>
 

Hi Ben,

Thanks for the info about decanting paint from spray cans. I appreciate the education.

Cheers,
Bill Keene
Irvine, CA


On Jan 16, 2017, at 11:03 AM, Benjamin Hom b.hom@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:


Bill Keene asked:
"That said, I am wondering if the Rust-Oleum comes in a can or bottle along with the rattle can? If not, then perhaps spraying into a jar and then using that to spray from an air brush might be a good solution."

Decanting paint from spray cans:



Andy Brusgard
 

Denny, I never turn the spray can upside down to clear the nozzle. I pull they nozzle off and drop it into a small jar wirh lacquer thinner. After a few minutes, I  run some lacquer thinner through it with a dropper.  Put it back on the can and you are go to go the next time. Just, don't push it back on the can to hard or you are starting over. :-)
AndyB
modelengineers.org


Gene Deimling
 

I find it surprising that rattle cans would be used on model equipment especially a brand sold at Home Depot.
The best dead flat finish is Alclad 2. It is intended for airbrush only.

Gene Deimling


Fran Giacoma
 

Got a can of Dead Flat Clear today at Home Depot and sprayed an Owl Mountain Models lumber load. Came out better than using Dullcoat, which has been my flat finish for a number of years. Given this success, I'll try it on other items.
Fran Giacoma


StephenK
 

I started out many years ago with a budget Badger airbrush and had good li=uck with it.   I then got a nice, single action Paasch and used it for years, but finally the needle and tip needed replacement and I decided to go for a double action.   I got a Testors Aztec and used it for a while, but it gave me a lot of trouble.   Now I am back to the cheapie Badger and getting the results I need with no problems.   

I have used  Dullcote in the rattle can for years, but am ready to try the Rust-Oleum--the Dullcote is a lot of money for a small can!@

Steve Kay


jczzo126 CocuzzaT
 

I have probably tried all these methods and types of paints over the years. Remember Ulrich 410M paint? Dullcote seems to be very humidity sensitive, the higher the humidity, the more likely to get white or milky. I have even used Testor's cheap plastic airbrushes, either with a propellant can or my compressor. Clean them a couple times, toss them if they get too crappy. I do have a good compressor and booth, and a good, really old Miller brush, and a Passche. For clean-up, appropriate thinner for whatever type of paint I used. The secret with spray cans is, make sure they're shaken well, and warm. Also, I save the nozzles when the can is empty, clean it good, and then, if I have a can that doesn't have a good clean nozzle, chuck it and change it. I do tend to use spray cans when I can, set-up and clean-up time quicker. But, now that I am building better (read more $$) kits, It's worth my time to finish it well.

On Mon, Jan 16, 2017 at 7:50 PM, frangiacoma@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:
 

Got a can of Dead Flat Clear today at Home Depot and sprayed an Owl Mountain Models lumber load. Came out better than using Dullcoat, which has been my flat finish for a number of years. Given this success, I'll try it on other items.

Fran Giacoma



Schuyler Larrabee
 

Wait!!! You mean, paint comes in CANS?



I never use spray cans for model work. I want control over what, where and how much paint I apply.



I have a Binks Wren (two, actually) even still, and have gotten compliments on the results, and have even done custom painting using them. The Binks compressor finally gave out (acquired about 1975) and I bought a Harbor Freight horizontal tank compressor to replace that, which is fine but kind of noisy. I built a spray booth, which goes out the same window opening as the clothes dryer (but not at the same time!) which was fitted (by others) with a dryer vent fitting through a piece of plexi. That will be upgraded to simply through the wall this summer, when the basement rework is closer to being complete.



The Rust Oleum flat sounds interesting, but as faithful readers may recall, years ago I came across a flat lacquer used in the professional photographer trade to spray finished photos after they’d been retouched. Of course, now, ‘retouching” happens in the computer but you can still buy that flat a lacquer at a good paint store, the only problem being that it comes only in gallon size, and needs to be let down about 4:1 with lacquer thinner.



I have used acrylics, but I don’t like them, and they don’t like me.



Schuyler



From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2017 2:24 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish





How many guys here use spray cans to paint their HO Scale equipment? In today's world why wouldn't you have acquired even the most economic airbrush?



Show of hands...



Greg Martin



Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean



In a message dated 1/15/2017 3:12:25 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, STMFC@... writes:



At yesterday's Great Train Show I talked with Joel Bragdon, the weathering powder entrepreneur, about base and finish coatings for use with chalks and powders.



He mentioned that Rust-Oleum announced a new coating last March called "Dead Flat Clear" and that he likes the product. Here is a photo link:



<http://tinyurl.com/jnou4lu> http://tinyurl.com/jnou4lu



I did a little searching and found that Home Depot and Lowe's both carry it.



Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Bill Keene <wakeene@...>
 

Hello Group,

Schuyler wrote "I came across a flat lacquer used in the professional photographer trade to spray finished photos after they’d been retouched. Of course, now, ‘retouching” happens in the computer but you can still buy that flat a lacquer at a good paint store, the only problem being that it comes only in gallon size, and needs to be let down about 4:1 with lacquer thinner.

Does this photo finishing flat lacquer have a product name? 

Cheers,
Bill Keene
Irvine, CA





Greg Martin
 

Schuyler writes:

"Wait!!! You mean, paint comes in CANS?"
 
I am surprised at how may folks use spray cans on models and it was interesting as to why they don't use an air brush even though they may own one.
 
I like that opening Schuyler!  I too use spray cans to "bomb' certain things, like roadbed, track, first coat on streets and sub-color for scenery most anywhere... Models no.

"I never use spray cans for model work. I want control over what, where and how much paint I apply."
 
Your right it is called control, something some folks can MASTER with a can I but not I. Since I was a kid on a bike riding to Brookhurst Hobbies in Garden Grove, CA with the original owner the late John Lee (general manager of Knott's Berry Farm) I was trained to use an airbrush, and it was, like Schuyler, a Binks Wren, two as matter of fact and both retired. And a Miller compressor long since retired. The airbrushes I have in the original boxes in the garage for some strange reason, the compressor was scrapped.
 
At the time they were, as the kids say, the BOMB! Now its my Pasche mostly because of the availability of replacement parts. I have several airbrushes (5) and they all serve separate roles, like weathering and the like.

"I have a Binks Wren (two, actually) even still, and have gotten compliments on the results, and have even done custom painting using them. The Binks compressor finally gave out (acquired about 1975) and I bought a Harbor Freight horizontal tank compressor to replace that, which is fine but kind of noisy. I built a spray booth, which goes out the same window opening as the clothes dryer (but not at the same time!) which was fitted (by others) with a dryer vent fitting through a piece of plexi. That will be upgraded to simply through the wall this summer, when the basement rework is closer to being complete.

The Rust Oleum flat sounds interesting, but as faithful readers may recall, years ago I came across a flat lacquer used in the professional photographer trade to spray finished photos after they’d been retouched. Of course, now, ‘retouching” happens in the computer but you can still buy that flat a lacquer at a good paint store, the only problem being that it comes only in gallon size, and needs to be let down about 4:1 with lacquer thinner.

I have used acrylics, but I don’t like them, and they don’t like me.

Schuyler"
 
I have been using an airbrush since the late sixties in my hobby and in school, and Like Tony reminds us that cleaning the airbrush between every change in color or completion of my session I clean my brush. It is a matter of self discipline and no big deal, just do it. I don't like acrylics and I have tried many, I don't use them.
 
Greg Martin
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean


Schuyler Larrabee
 

Well, yes, Bill, it does. Or rather, did. It was McDonald flat lacquer for photo finishing. Unfortunately, I found that about 30+ years ago, and well, a gallon lasts you a L O N G time, even if you give some to your friends.



But I eventually used it up (or it went sideways in the divorce, not sure which) and went to buy some more. And McDonald had by then been bought and folded into another company and didn’t list it anymore. I mean, who needs photo finishing lacquer anymore? I did find a suitable product and will go find the gallon tomorrow (it’s late here) and let you know.



Schuyler







Hello Group,



Schuyler wrote "I came across a flat lacquer used in the professional photographer trade to spray finished photos after they’d been retouched. Of course, now, ‘retouching” happens in the computer but you can still buy that flat a lacquer at a good paint store, the only problem being that it comes only in gallon size, and needs to be let down about 4:1 with lacquer thinner.”



Does this photo finishing flat lacquer have a product name?



Cheers,

Bill Keene

Irvine, CA











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]