Anyone know of a HO source for the T-section trucks? I know of the Kadee version, but those flimsy springs and operation are a non-starter (plus look just silly)
The T-Section trucks look unique and are a nice alternative to the typical castframe trucks and really define a PFE reefer.
Thx,

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RJ Dial
Mendocino, CA

I agree, the old Kadde truck springs look poor. Kadee makes a HGC (high gravity compound) version of this truck where the springs are solid, # 571 or 1571 with the semi scale wheels.  They look much better and are heavier.  Not perfect by any stretch but far better than the originals.

 

For clarity sake, you mean friction bearing Bettendorf T-section Trucks ... made in HO not only by Kadee and Walthers (as has been mentioned), but once also by Red Caboose. MTH also used nice Bettendorf T Section trucks for use on various cars in HO - including used erroneously on it's PFE R-40-2.  If you have this car, you may be able to swap.  Finally, I recall hearing that Brian at Tahoe Model Works was working on producing such at one time, but don't see it was ever released.  

Speaking of Tahoe, not there are of course, other "T-Section" type trucks, most notably Andrews, which he did do in HO as a limited edition for the Northern Pacific group:

http://store.nprha.org/ho-scale-nprha-special-edition-40-ton-t-section-andrews-trucks-semi-scale-wheels/

 

By the way, if any manufacturer is listening, Bettendorf T section trucks have LONG been on high on the wish list for us N scale modelers .... never been made in N.  Detailed plans for such live at CSRM and I'd buy good ones (ex. injection molded POM) by the "truck load" in N, as they are the correct truck for the very popular Atlas PFE R-30-13 many other as built SP freight cars of the era.

 

 

 

Hello friends,

what's with the Owl Mountain Models flat car truck?:

http://www.owlmtmodels.com/2000-series/OMM_f-50-in-stock.jpg

I do not have that model, but others on this list have built them. Hopefully the one or the other will say some words. At the picture these trucks look fine (to me), but I don't think they are available separately.

Many greetings

Johannes
Modeling the early post-war years up to about 1953

Of course when the T section trucks were introduced, roller bearings were effectively (yes available, but not used on freight cars due to perceived higher cost and conservative attitudes about technology, held by railroad officials, so not an option) as no one would specify solid bearing or other.    At the time there were just "Journal bearings", which were understood to be bronze, with babbitt lining.

Randy Hees

Thanks for all the replies. Didn't know about the solid frame Kadee trucks.  Looks like they are the only viable game in town right now at $12/pair (ouch). I forgot about the Owl Mountain Flatcars, i even built 5 of them. Had me excited there for a minute but appears they are Red Caboose closeouts and Jason got them all. Looks like a Tahoe opportunity!

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RJ Dial
Mendocino, CA

Based on the comments in the OP, RJ is not interested in sprung trucks.  So there are exactly four options for "solid" T-section Bettendorfs in HO scale.

Kadee 572/1572
Walthers 1009
MTH
Red Caboose

Only the Kadee is currently offered as a stand-alone part.  They are nicely done, although I am not a big fan of the "self-centering" feature. 

I have freed up a couple of MTH and Red Caboose sets by swapping as was mentioned earlier.  But it's a limited resource for most of us.  The Walthers 1009s are meh, but can be had fairly cheap on eBay.

I can't be optimistic about any "new" offerings.  Unofficially at least, Brian Leppert is on record as being retired from doing any new TMW tooling.  It sounds like Owl Mountain is set for quite a while with their existing stash of RC trucks.  I plan on working with the status quo, but of course would welcome any good new when it comes to pre-1920 truck designs.

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Dave Parker
Swall Meadows, CA

On Mon, Jan 4, 2021 at 03:31 AM, greg snook wrote:

RJ,

I love the weathering on the deck of your flat car.  Could you please share your methods for that?  I have one Owl Mountain flat car awaiting decals, and would love to weather it as well as you have.

Thanks

Greg Snook

I'll send you the photos that go with the steps. It is actually rather quick & easy. Over the last 3 decades I've tried most methods and really like this one. Hardest part would be to find a Floquil Foundation replacement, although I guess any solvent based tan color would do, a rattle can would make it even faster.

1. Nick and scrape the surface
2. Paint with an even coat with Floquil Foundation
3. Using acrylic paints (burnt and raw Siennas & Umbers, Ochre, Terra Cotta) randomly color individual boards. Don't need to be careful, quick is good. Wet the brush and thin the paint blobs on a palette. Craft Paints or artists tubes are fine. As a matter of fact, I will use any brownish craft paints to mix things up. You only need about 4 different colors each time, otherwise will look unnatural. Leave some boards Foundation.
4. This is the unintuitive part. I then make a thin wash of Burnt Sienna acrylic and brush it on all over.
5. Spray with Dullcoat (or similar)
6. Apply a thin wash of turpentine and black oil paint.,
7. 

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RJ Dial
Mendocino, CA

Interesting method.  Looks great.  Seems Microscale recommends Model Master (1709) Radome Tan as a best replacement for Floquil Foundation.

Q: Jason's decks are styrene, yes?  Would you recommend the same method for use on a true wood deck?  (sorry for the thread drift!)

I've used a similar technique on a resin deck, except starting with a light grey base. Weathered wood often appears grey or silverish. I used browns and tans over it, then a unifying wash of black.  As I recall I used enamels, brushed on, thinning them out a bit. I may have done a little dry brushing too.Sorry I can't send a photo.

Steve