Topics

Using Pledge (Future)


Benjamin Hom
 

Les Sittler asked:
"Any advice would be most appreciated."




Ken Adams
 

I have even been known to use it on my Pergo floors without harm. Let us hope that J&J never tries to "improve" it in our lifetimes...
--
Ken Adams
Still in splendid Shelter In Place solitude, about half way up Walnut Creek


Rob & Bev Manley
 

Ken,
I have been using Pledge for about 30 years as my gloss coat prior to decaling. It works well with acrylic paints and makes decaling a breeze. Some times it might show a muddiness in the target area but it will go away. Much like white glue turns clear. I have a nickel plated Oriental Twin Cities Zephyr and 2 E-7s that I used it on and the finish has never cracked or failed. You can even cut the Future with a little Silver to tone down the shiny plating as shown in an old Mainline Modeler article by Bob Kosic. He didn't use Future, I did. 
Another use is to attach Photo Etch parts by using a small artist watercolor brush. It worked great on my Genesis Farr air filter grills. It is an acrylic product and has some flexibility, unlike ACC. 
Use full strength in your airbrush and don't lay it on too thick as it will run. If you notice this, take it to the sink and scrub the model with a toothbrush and Windex. So yes, no thinning required. 
The military guys say you can add Talcum to it to make your own Flat finish. I haven't tried that.

Sincerely,
Rob Manley
"Better modeling through personal embarrassment"


On Wednesday, September 23, 2020, 11:29:22 AM CDT, Ken Adams <smadanek44g@...> wrote:


I have even been known to use it on my Pergo floors without harm. Let us hope that J&J never tries to "improve" it in our lifetimes...
--
Ken Adams
Still in splendid Shelter In Place solitude, about half way up Walnut Creek


james murrie
 

I've used it for many years to do things like gluing windows in rail cars.  Works like any white glue, but flows great and doesn't show where it hit the "glass".
Jim Murrie


Jim Betz
 

  OK, I have to admit my "dirty little secret".  I don't consider it important - at all - to
use any kind of "prep" for decals.  I float my decals on using just distilled water.
Then I wick off the extra.  Then I apply Solvaset and wick it off (using small pieces
of tissue held in tweezers).  Let it dry (mostly).  Reapply more Solvaset and wick
off the extra.  Let it dry (again - mostly).  Use a pin to prick the surface of the
decal (round headed sewing pin).  Reapply Solvaset and wick.  Let it dry.
And "done".  Let it dry - FULLY.  Use pure - distilled - water to clean up any
residue from the Solvaset.  Really DONE.  Yes, I use the same process for
all decal brands.
  Your methods may vary.  Mine work for me.  
                                                                                                       - Jim