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Westerfield NYC 1916 Modernized boxcar off the workbench

Nelson Moyer
 

Your pin  vise raised red flags for me. It’s too big and heavy, and the ball anchors it in your palm, so you don’t have fine fingertip control. I recommend a couple of Starrett sizes. I’m also using an old Ehrlinger slip ring pin vise that was my ‘go to’ for small bits until the chuck wore down so that it won’t hold bits smaller than #76. I ordered a replacement two years ago, but the chuck was acentric, so I sent it back. I tried again a year later with the same result. Apparently Swiss precision has slipped since I bought the first one.

 

Look at the pin vise posts on resincarbuilders group for other recommendations. Bottom line, you fingers should control the bit, not the palm of your hand. No wonder you break bits.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Ken Adams
Sent: Saturday, May 7, 2022 1:47 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Westerfield NYC 1916 Modernized boxcar off the workbench

 

Thanks for all the comments about my grab iron hole drilling. My tools  and drilling setup are shown below.

My only explanation is that I might have gotten a bad batch of Gyros #78 drill bits.  I have never had such bad results as this before. I have been drilling grab iron holes since the 1980's. 
They last 4 were drilled with a #76 bit which did not break after 10/12 twists.  Note that I am using a Mascot twist drill with non rotating wood handle. Boelube (from Boeing development) was used on every new bit and when cleared. The holes and bits were cleared of plastic regularly as I drilled.  I have not had problems with Gyros bits before and found them to last often beyond one project.  I am now done with the 72 holes. The grab irons have been inserted and secured with Plasti-Zap Medium CA from behind. I will probably let primer and paint coats fill the gaps in the grab iron holes. 

 The next challenge is cutting the bolt heads off 72 Grandt Line 3/4 nut to glue above the grab irons.  Unfortunately my pipette glue applicator is clogged. Soaking in IPA now.

And I usually drink Irish whiskey not Scotch (unless I happen on an excellent single malt at an affordable price.)

My plan for the future is only build kits of more modern cars that have ladders not grab irons for reaching the car roof. 


--
Ken Adams
Omicron BA2.2xx may come and go but I still live mostly in splendid Shelter In Place solitude
Location: About half way up Walnut Creek
Owner PlasticFreightCarBuilders@groups.io

Nelson Moyer
 

I missed the Scotch reference. Affordable single malt is an oxymoron. I’m partial to Lagavulin 16 year old single malt, but only around holidays.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Ken Adams
Sent: Saturday, May 7, 2022 1:47 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Westerfield NYC 1916 Modernized boxcar off the workbench

 

Thanks for all the comments about my grab iron hole drilling. My tools  and drilling setup are shown below.

My only explanation is that I might have gotten a bad batch of Gyros #78 drill bits.  I have never had such bad results as this before. I have been drilling grab iron holes since the 1980's. 
They last 4 were drilled with a #76 bit which did not break after 10/12 twists.  Note that I am using a Mascot twist drill with non rotating wood handle. Boelube (from Boeing development) was used on every new bit and when cleared. The holes and bits were cleared of plastic regularly as I drilled.  I have not had problems with Gyros bits before and found them to last often beyond one project.  I am now done with the 72 holes. The grab irons have been inserted and secured with Plasti-Zap Medium CA from behind. I will probably let primer and paint coats fill the gaps in the grab iron holes. 

 The next challenge is cutting the bolt heads off 72 Grandt Line 3/4 nut to glue above the grab irons.  Unfortunately my pipette glue applicator is clogged. Soaking in IPA now.

And I usually drink Irish whiskey not Scotch (unless I happen on an excellent single malt at an affordable price.)

My plan for the future is only build kits of more modern cars that have ladders not grab irons for reaching the car roof. 


--
Ken Adams
Omicron BA2.2xx may come and go but I still live mostly in splendid Shelter In Place solitude
Location: About half way up Walnut Creek
Owner PlasticFreightCarBuilders@groups.io

anthony wagner
 

Another two cents worth. Normally I use a single speed Dreml tool with a Dreml speed control to slow it down for drilling grab iron holes etc. In plastic or resin a very low speed is mandatory, even with #79 or #80 drills. I'm on my third Dreml since I've been using them since the 1970s. The single speed ones have plain bearings which eventually cause problems when they get too worn. I also use a Gyros 97-01818 swivel head pin vice for certain applications. I have had mine for literally decades. They are currently available from Amazon for $9.98. They allow very fine finger control for drilling by hand. A steady hand while drilling is essential. Otherwise, the bits will break.  Tony Wagner
On Saturday, May 7, 2022, 02:52:26 PM CDT, Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:


I missed the Scotch reference. Affordable single malt is an oxymoron. I’m partial to Lagavulin 16 year old single malt, but only around holidays.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Ken Adams
Sent: Saturday, May 7, 2022 1:47 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Westerfield NYC 1916 Modernized boxcar off the workbench

 

Thanks for all the comments about my grab iron hole drilling. My tools  and drilling setup are shown below.

My only explanation is that I might have gotten a bad batch of Gyros #78 drill bits.  I have never had such bad results as this before. I have been drilling grab iron holes since the 1980's. 
They last 4 were drilled with a #76 bit which did not break after 10/12 twists.  Note that I am using a Mascot twist drill with non rotating wood handle. Boelube (from Boeing development) was used on every new bit and when cleared. The holes and bits were cleared of plastic regularly as I drilled.  I have not had problems with Gyros bits before and found them to last often beyond one project.  I am now done with the 72 holes. The grab irons have been inserted and secured with Plasti-Zap Medium CA from behind. I will probably let primer and paint coats fill the gaps in the grab iron holes. 

 The next challenge is cutting the bolt heads off 72 Grandt Line 3/4 nut to glue above the grab irons.  Unfortunately my pipette glue applicator is clogged. Soaking in IPA now.

And I usually drink Irish whiskey not Scotch (unless I happen on an excellent single malt at an affordable price.)

My plan for the future is only build kits of more modern cars that have ladders not grab irons for reaching the car roof. 


--
Ken Adams
Omicron BA2.2xx may come and go but I still live mostly in splendid Shelter In Place solitude
Location: About half way up Walnut Creek
Owner PlasticFreightCarBuilders@groups.io

Ted Larson
 

I know of people using battery screwdrivers for low rpm drilling.  




--
Ted Larson
Trainweb.org/MHRR   ---   GN in 1965   ---   NASG.org 
Ken Adams
 

I have a collection of battery and low power drills and screwdrivers that mount collets.  None were workable for drilling grab iron mounting holes. As Nelson pointed out above, these tools are too heavy for use with #78-#80 drill bits. I have a Starrett 240A Pin Vise l due from Amazon today. Unfortunately after I ordered it, I noticed comments about quality problems with the trueness of the collet in recent orders from Starrett.  Hopefully this will have better quality and will work.

As I have pointed out. I think I will confine my modeling in the future to box and other house cars from the 1940's on where ladders replaced separate grab irons. The Westerfield later NYC modernized rebuild looks like a promising kit. It has ladders.
--
Ken Adams
Omicron BA2.2 may come and go but I still live mostly in splendid Shelter In Place solitude
Location: About half way up Walnut Creek
Owner PlasticFreightCarBuilders@groups.io
Curt Fortenberry
 


I've bought these drills off of ebay.  They say used but I've never had a dull one, and the thick shank eliminates which holder I use.  I always have my wax block nearby to lubricate.  I've only ever broken one in resin kits, never had one break using it on plastic.  All hand held chucks.

Curt Fortenberry

https://www.ebay.com/itm/165010445835

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