Curt, and all; I am most interested in cars between the earliest photos I can find, in the mid-thirties, to the dedicated cars of the mid-fifties thru sixties. I have not been able to re-join the MFCL

I wish to be clear--I do not think that old-school 3D mold making is better than CNC. I am simply saying that 3D mold making has made some great model parts and has no need to be viewed as not worthy

I know that a good CNC program is certainly capable of superior work and is done so all the time, but I challenge anyone to find a better HO improved Dreadnaught end than the HO casting I sent a pictu

Speaking of molded ends, I'm looking for unbuilt reefer kits or molded resin ends, roofs and doors made by Stan Rydarowicz. If you have any you're willing to part with, please contact me off-list (cli

Hello- Pictured is a tooling resin 1/12 scale PC&F R-40-23 Refrigerator car Dreadnaught end. This is a classic example of an old-school method of tool making. An individual rib is carefully shaped and

Gang; I am putting together a presentation on this subject, and am in the next phase of research. I am finding very much info on the story behind the shipment of steel sheet and coiled steel sheet, an

Taking roster shots of your completed freight cars can document your fleet as it grows. I get caught up with several models recently and posted some thoughts on the process in my latest blog post. htt

CAUTION: Slotted Screws Visible I have started rigging the truss rod system for my CB&Q model’s underframe. I use .015-brass wire for the rods so prior to gluing the Queen Posts in place I used a new

Stencil: Heavy Repairs This is Illinois Central refrigerator car 93347. This car was built in 1916. A stencil above the sill and to the left of the door reads, "Heavy Repairs McComb 9-28-25": http://l

Photo: SFRD Reefer 6719 A link courtesy of Brian Rochon previously posted on this group: http://lists.railfan.net/erielackphoto.cgi?erielack-12-10-19/X4544.jpg Not a great photo but this can be improv

Good looking models, Eric. Nice weathering

Years ago when Al Westerfield was beginning the process of selling his business he let his customers know it might be a good idea to place an order just in case. I ordered several kits just in case. C

Hi guys The Accurail conversion is ready for painting and decals for WP I have left the original roof as Tony Thompson reckons some got steel roofs at some stage. The kit bashing is not perfect as I r

From the Steamtown site today. http://lists.railfan.net/erielackphoto.cgi?erielack-12-10-19/X4586.jpg along with SFRD reefer 6719 http://lists.railfan.net/erielackphoto.cgi?erielack-12-10-19/X4544.jpg

I a weak moment I picked up an Accurail box car at the mall show yesterday. It's box number is 4498 It's described as a 'Data Only - DK'. I thought it might work for the CL mini-kit, only noticing the

Hello everyone, I've just completed a batch of Utah Coal Route GS gondola kits in HO scale, and listed them on Ebay. There are two options for grab irons: solid "cast" type, and wire grab drill points

When did the Bangor and Aroostook start applying the three color State of Maine scheme to their 1932 ARA boxcars? Thanks Gene Deimling -- Gene Deimling El Dorado Hills, CA

Brian, I have a very useful technique for plugging holes on styrene bodies. 1st step is to place a stretched piece of scotch tape over the hole's opening. 2nd is to use Ace Hardware 2-ton epoxy and fi

We've discussed the Single Sheath boxcars over on the WP Modelers FB site a couple of times. Bill Kennedy has decals that cover the 26000 series with the proper medallion. Here is an image of the cars

I’m working on an Intermountain box car and I need to plug some of the holes in the body to re-detail it. I have found I don’t have an appropriate diameter styrene rod. What I have is too small. Since